The saying “What a difference a day makes” has really proved itself true lately. I’m sure those of you up north are witnessing the occasional spring-like, sunny day that can change your whole attitude about the grey, cold winter. Last week we experienced about 5 magnificent days of mild winds, blue skies & calm seas. We were fortunate to be anchored in an unpopulated area, with the company of just 2 other boats (our friends). Each day we spent on and in the water, pulling the dinghy behind us on drift dives, swimming around beautiful coral gardens, and gathering pails full of conch. We feasted on our take from the sea every night, & watched the stars in the calm of the night.
The last day of calm weather allowed us to pick up our present guests, Peter & Dorothy, who had flown the red-eye from LA to Miami, arriving in Georgetown by afternoon.
Then the next front arrived, and we have had an average of 25 knot winds (higher gusts) buffeting Independence, causing white caps in the harbor, and resulting in bouncy and wet dinghy rides for even the shortest distance. A day or 2 of this is often tolerated, but this relentless wind is causing even the most hardy sailor to become irritable & hopeful for a break. P & D have been champions. Cheerfully adapting to the forced close-quarter existence on Independence, and taking advantage of the slimmest opportunities to get in the water, they have slept in a bouncy v-berth, woken up to static radio net announcements, and been dragged on to wet dinghy rides across the rough harbor, with never a word of complaint. Thank you guys, and we wish we could have controlled the weather to offer a more balanced experience.
So, from windy Georgetown, we wish you all a very enjoyable and pleasant spring, and remember- What a difference a day makes!
With a smile,
Sue and Paul
Independence
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Back on the hook
Another cool (for the Bahamas) day, and the wind seems to be picking up again after a respite of a few days that was like an oasis in a blustery, cold winter. Independence is anchored just outside Compass Cay in a small harbor that we have had all to ourselves for the last 3 days.
It's been a nice break from the busy drama of Rum Cay, so we have had to change mode from living on the dock, to being back on the hook. (Running the generator twice a day, separating the food garbage for fish food, keeping lights at a minimum, etc.)
Jubilee is at the marina with Alan and Helen on board, so we have been spending time at Compass, hiking the trails and swimming the beaches. Tonight will be our farewell "happy hour" since the Weinsteins fly out tomorrow, and Jubilee will move on.
After that, we will make our way south again, till we get to Georgetown (the cruiser's hub) to pick up Paul's cousin Peter & wife Dorothy who will join us onboard for a week. We have also just found out another friend (Benny Jr) will join us after that. Things will be getting pretty busy on Indy, and it will be good to get in Georgetown to re-provision in the only decent market south of Nassau.
Of course, it's not like we have been hungry! Paul's lobsters caught in the last 2 days, and the conch which is cleaned and waiting in the fridge, have more than supplemented the Dorado (mahi-mahi) caught on the way up from Rum Cay. We give blessings for the abundance on our plates from the sea.
So, hoping you all have many blessings as well, love to all-- spring is on the way!
Sue & Paul
Independence
It's been a nice break from the busy drama of Rum Cay, so we have had to change mode from living on the dock, to being back on the hook. (Running the generator twice a day, separating the food garbage for fish food, keeping lights at a minimum, etc.)
Jubilee is at the marina with Alan and Helen on board, so we have been spending time at Compass, hiking the trails and swimming the beaches. Tonight will be our farewell "happy hour" since the Weinsteins fly out tomorrow, and Jubilee will move on.
After that, we will make our way south again, till we get to Georgetown (the cruiser's hub) to pick up Paul's cousin Peter & wife Dorothy who will join us onboard for a week. We have also just found out another friend (Benny Jr) will join us after that. Things will be getting pretty busy on Indy, and it will be good to get in Georgetown to re-provision in the only decent market south of Nassau.
Of course, it's not like we have been hungry! Paul's lobsters caught in the last 2 days, and the conch which is cleaned and waiting in the fridge, have more than supplemented the Dorado (mahi-mahi) caught on the way up from Rum Cay. We give blessings for the abundance on our plates from the sea.
So, hoping you all have many blessings as well, love to all-- spring is on the way!
Sue & Paul
Independence
Thursday, February 26, 2009
No-see-ums, green flashes, shark shows, naturalist excursions, beach-combing
Rum Cay, Bahamas
Our entry into Sumner Point Marina felt in many ways like coming home. Independence has spent a month or more at a time in this protected hole. It is the only time we tie up at a marina—there are several reasons for this. Primarily, because the anchorage is basically untenable for any stretch of time, especially in a trawler. There is a swell that, even on the calmest days will rock your boat till you are ready to swim to shore and sleep on the beach.
This, of course, is not an option because if the mosquitoes are not covering every inch of exposed skin, then the “no-see-ums” are leaving their incredible stinging bite on those same spots. These microscopic, flying pests especially appear before sunset (also early morning) and launch a full-scale attack on the crew of the fishing boats, cleaning the day’s catch at the docks.
The protocol that has evolved for us, is put on long sleeves & long pants, close up the boat & turn on the air-conditioning (another reason fro being at the dock), & venture outside with a beer or two for the fish-cleaners (which might result in a zip-lock bag filled with fresh fillet for dinner).
There are two shows going on about this time. One is the shark-feeding fest. These sharks have been coming in for years, trained by the prospect and smell of free food, as the fish remains get tossed off the dock. Some are a good 10ft long, and there are Lemon sharks and Bull sharks mixed in with the nurse sharks. Often, someone will tie a line through the fish carcass and bait the sharks, pulling them clear out of the water as they lunge and grab the bait. Falling off the dock is just not an option! (nor is swimming in the marina at any time of day).
The second show is nature’s heavenly display as the huge, fiery sun, sometimes the color of a blood orange, sinks slowly, at first, then quickly melts into the blue waters of the horizon. All eyes are trained on those last few seconds of descent, eager to catch a glimpse of the Green Flash, which is a sight heralded by those who see it, and mocked by those who claim there is no such thing. I have often seen a burst of green, almost like a green button where the sun’s edge just was, but I have heard that there are truly spectacular flashes across the entire horizon. I still watch for that one!
Yesterday, on my daily 8am bike ride with a small group of islanders, we were surprised by one of the bulls who inhabit the island. The surprise was mutual, I’m sure, as we hooted and hollered and followed behind him as he galloped (really!) down the road and finally off through the brush again. He was big and white with a brown head, and a member of a herd of maybe over 100 wild cows (usually scrawny) whose evidence we see along the only paved road and on many of the beaches that ring the island.It’s about a 6.5 mile ride to the airport and back, but when the wind is blowing 20 knots, like this morning, it feels like twice that. The up side is that encountering a truck and a golf cart would be a heavy traffic day.
After packing a picnic lunch, we joined Oscar & Sue on their amazing little ranger vehicle that allows us access into the depths of the island. Bull-dozed “roads” criss-cross much of the island these days—many are already overgrown, all look like a rubble of rocks and boulders sided by overhanging branches & thorny stuff, as well as healthy poisonwood trees cropping up every so often. The high chassis & individual wheel suspension allow us to plow right over small trees & shrubs and ascend perilous rises, as well as get through soft sand. Two of us stand behind the seat in the bed, overlooking the treetops for some great views.
In addition to the obvious sea-grape, I have learned to identify the lignum vitae tree, the gum alame (Sp? Also called gumbo limbo), wild tamarind, 7-year apple, mahogany, and of course- the poison wood. Sue is a great guide and naturalist. At the northeast corner of the island, we get a good look at Lake George- a huge area of water, presumably fed by a blue hole, which exists near the center. That part of the island has hidden cenotes (underwater caves) and driving over the limestone ridges next to open holes filled with water can be a bit disconcerting.
We finally arrive at the N.E. beach. The wind is howling, & we climb down the bluff to the shore, where it’s a bit less exposed. This is a long, long stretch of beach-comber’s paradise. Up on the wrack line, an accumulation of plastic, glass bottles, and very random bits of machinery, lumber and always lots of shoes, are scattered among the piles of seaweed. Here is where we search for sea beans, old bottles, and glass sea bouys. Sometimes a useful bucket, strainer, or weird item is a keeper. Closer down by the surf where the soft sand meets flat rocky ledges, sparkling sea glass waits to be picked through and pocketed. Some of the limestone is worn away by the water creating little pocket pools that fill up with treasures, shells and coral bits thrown up by the receding tide. Michelle and Brigid, you both know how many hours we can happily pick through these offerings!
So, finally, full from our picnic feast, satisfied with our gleaning from the shore, and even tucking an ocean trigger that Oscar hooked with some bait he pulled from snails into the cooler, we head on back to town and home.
It’s been a stellar day.
Sue and Paul
Independence,
Rum Cay
Our entry into Sumner Point Marina felt in many ways like coming home. Independence has spent a month or more at a time in this protected hole. It is the only time we tie up at a marina—there are several reasons for this. Primarily, because the anchorage is basically untenable for any stretch of time, especially in a trawler. There is a swell that, even on the calmest days will rock your boat till you are ready to swim to shore and sleep on the beach.
This, of course, is not an option because if the mosquitoes are not covering every inch of exposed skin, then the “no-see-ums” are leaving their incredible stinging bite on those same spots. These microscopic, flying pests especially appear before sunset (also early morning) and launch a full-scale attack on the crew of the fishing boats, cleaning the day’s catch at the docks.
The protocol that has evolved for us, is put on long sleeves & long pants, close up the boat & turn on the air-conditioning (another reason fro being at the dock), & venture outside with a beer or two for the fish-cleaners (which might result in a zip-lock bag filled with fresh fillet for dinner).
There are two shows going on about this time. One is the shark-feeding fest. These sharks have been coming in for years, trained by the prospect and smell of free food, as the fish remains get tossed off the dock. Some are a good 10ft long, and there are Lemon sharks and Bull sharks mixed in with the nurse sharks. Often, someone will tie a line through the fish carcass and bait the sharks, pulling them clear out of the water as they lunge and grab the bait. Falling off the dock is just not an option! (nor is swimming in the marina at any time of day).
The second show is nature’s heavenly display as the huge, fiery sun, sometimes the color of a blood orange, sinks slowly, at first, then quickly melts into the blue waters of the horizon. All eyes are trained on those last few seconds of descent, eager to catch a glimpse of the Green Flash, which is a sight heralded by those who see it, and mocked by those who claim there is no such thing. I have often seen a burst of green, almost like a green button where the sun’s edge just was, but I have heard that there are truly spectacular flashes across the entire horizon. I still watch for that one!
Yesterday, on my daily 8am bike ride with a small group of islanders, we were surprised by one of the bulls who inhabit the island. The surprise was mutual, I’m sure, as we hooted and hollered and followed behind him as he galloped (really!) down the road and finally off through the brush again. He was big and white with a brown head, and a member of a herd of maybe over 100 wild cows (usually scrawny) whose evidence we see along the only paved road and on many of the beaches that ring the island.It’s about a 6.5 mile ride to the airport and back, but when the wind is blowing 20 knots, like this morning, it feels like twice that. The up side is that encountering a truck and a golf cart would be a heavy traffic day.
After packing a picnic lunch, we joined Oscar & Sue on their amazing little ranger vehicle that allows us access into the depths of the island. Bull-dozed “roads” criss-cross much of the island these days—many are already overgrown, all look like a rubble of rocks and boulders sided by overhanging branches & thorny stuff, as well as healthy poisonwood trees cropping up every so often. The high chassis & individual wheel suspension allow us to plow right over small trees & shrubs and ascend perilous rises, as well as get through soft sand. Two of us stand behind the seat in the bed, overlooking the treetops for some great views.
In addition to the obvious sea-grape, I have learned to identify the lignum vitae tree, the gum alame (Sp? Also called gumbo limbo), wild tamarind, 7-year apple, mahogany, and of course- the poison wood. Sue is a great guide and naturalist. At the northeast corner of the island, we get a good look at Lake George- a huge area of water, presumably fed by a blue hole, which exists near the center. That part of the island has hidden cenotes (underwater caves) and driving over the limestone ridges next to open holes filled with water can be a bit disconcerting.
We finally arrive at the N.E. beach. The wind is howling, & we climb down the bluff to the shore, where it’s a bit less exposed. This is a long, long stretch of beach-comber’s paradise. Up on the wrack line, an accumulation of plastic, glass bottles, and very random bits of machinery, lumber and always lots of shoes, are scattered among the piles of seaweed. Here is where we search for sea beans, old bottles, and glass sea bouys. Sometimes a useful bucket, strainer, or weird item is a keeper. Closer down by the surf where the soft sand meets flat rocky ledges, sparkling sea glass waits to be picked through and pocketed. Some of the limestone is worn away by the water creating little pocket pools that fill up with treasures, shells and coral bits thrown up by the receding tide. Michelle and Brigid, you both know how many hours we can happily pick through these offerings!
So, finally, full from our picnic feast, satisfied with our gleaning from the shore, and even tucking an ocean trigger that Oscar hooked with some bait he pulled from snails into the cooler, we head on back to town and home.
It’s been a stellar day.
Sue and Paul
Independence,
Rum Cay
Saturday, January 10, 2009
They do laundry, too.
Happy New Year from Independence!
The end of the "festivities" left us with a neglected boat (clean-wise), and a mountain of laundry. No doubt everyone is familiar with the social whirl, company cycle that replaces the normal daily schedule of your lives, and then the catch-up when it is all over. [Editor's note: Yes, we are familiar with this cycle,...against a backdrop of bitter cold weather, far from the azure waters of the Caribbean.]
After fond farewells to visitors and friends, our house-keeping began with a trip to Sampson Cay Marina for fuel (and a quick birthday present purchase of the "market"). From there, we jumped in the dinghy to return some borrowed items, and deliver a late X-mas gift to a friend anchored at Big Sampson. Then we headed south to Black Point, which, for those in the know, is the location of the best (cleanest, modern) laundromat. Underway, I baked a crust & cheesecake for Deb's Bay.
Once we were safely anchored in the anchorage, there was a quick organization of laundry: sheets, towels, darks & lights. Then package it in dry bags & big black plastic bags and load it onto the dinghy. The "laundermat" has a dock conveniently located out the back & down the hill. So we tie up there and lug our stinking treasures up, so they can be rejuvenated with $27 worth of washer/dryer tokens. Once the washers are churning, we find ourselves inching up to the corner TV screen which is broadcasting warfare in the Gaza on CNN -- this, being the first bit of network news we've heard in quite a while. There is also a couple of small shelves in the corner with the usual assortment of moldy, pocket-worn paperbacks and few 3-year old magazines and some hardcovers, for swap-out.
A walk through the main street of Black Point reveals a clean town (big, plastic garbage barrels line the road every 30 meters), and warm and friendly locals, and several prominent churches. (We've found that in many communities, rival congregations make up most of the population.)
Later, that evening, after transporting the laundry in reverse, 6 of us got together for a nice birthday dinner for Deb, and probably all fell fast asleep by 9pm- a full hour before "cruiser's midnight". Time to say goodbye, now and hope that my current internet connection holds out to send this.
Best wishes and all our love,
Sue and Paul, aboard Independence.
The end of the "festivities" left us with a neglected boat (clean-wise), and a mountain of laundry. No doubt everyone is familiar with the social whirl, company cycle that replaces the normal daily schedule of your lives, and then the catch-up when it is all over. [Editor's note: Yes, we are familiar with this cycle,...against a backdrop of bitter cold weather, far from the azure waters of the Caribbean.]
After fond farewells to visitors and friends, our house-keeping began with a trip to Sampson Cay Marina for fuel (and a quick birthday present purchase of the "market"). From there, we jumped in the dinghy to return some borrowed items, and deliver a late X-mas gift to a friend anchored at Big Sampson. Then we headed south to Black Point, which, for those in the know, is the location of the best (cleanest, modern) laundromat. Underway, I baked a crust & cheesecake for Deb's Bay.
Once we were safely anchored in the anchorage, there was a quick organization of laundry: sheets, towels, darks & lights. Then package it in dry bags & big black plastic bags and load it onto the dinghy. The "laundermat" has a dock conveniently located out the back & down the hill. So we tie up there and lug our stinking treasures up, so they can be rejuvenated with $27 worth of washer/dryer tokens. Once the washers are churning, we find ourselves inching up to the corner TV screen which is broadcasting warfare in the Gaza on CNN -- this, being the first bit of network news we've heard in quite a while. There is also a couple of small shelves in the corner with the usual assortment of moldy, pocket-worn paperbacks and few 3-year old magazines and some hardcovers, for swap-out.
A walk through the main street of Black Point reveals a clean town (big, plastic garbage barrels line the road every 30 meters), and warm and friendly locals, and several prominent churches. (We've found that in many communities, rival congregations make up most of the population.)
Later, that evening, after transporting the laundry in reverse, 6 of us got together for a nice birthday dinner for Deb, and probably all fell fast asleep by 9pm- a full hour before "cruiser's midnight". Time to say goodbye, now and hope that my current internet connection holds out to send this.
Best wishes and all our love,
Sue and Paul, aboard Independence.
Monday, December 29, 2008
Christmas winds, Christmas hospitality, flotilla of carolers
We hope everyone had a delicious, warm, and happy Christmas with friends and loved ones. Independence was blessed with the arrival of Lisa and Lance. Our cruising buddies joined us in making them most welcome and showing them a full few days of activities. We are sad to say goodbye to them today, but they will continue their brief vacation on Harbor Island, a short flight north of here, before returning to the snow-covered streets of Boston.
Although we did not have snow, we did have a week of strong “Christmas winds” and several days of rain and nasty squalls. These boat-bound days can either drive you a little stir-crazy, or force you into some creative or repair work. Of course, it is always an opportunity to do some needed cleaning and organizing in our small living space.
Independence was decorated with Christmas baubles on the inside, and rope LED lights on our mast and boom. The anchorage looks quite festive with many boats strung up with lights. On Christmas morning a flotilla of dinghies with passengers dressed festively in red, motored from boat to boat singing Christmas carols.
Our Christmas day was spent on a beautiful drift dive (8 of us) where we snagged some lobsters, swam with about 8 huge, and graceful spotted eagle rays, and ended up in a field of conch that we collected for later cleaning (and eating). Later, we all prepared the feast for our progressive dinner. Conch and lobster salads for appetizer, then mahi-mahi parmesan-i (our invention), followed by chocolate cake and coconut cream pie! Somehow we manage to concoct these feasts in our limited galleys.
The next few days were a whirlwind of activity, often starting with vigorous yoga on the beach followed by a refreshing swim (to get the sand of our sweaty bodies).
Paul and I are so grateful to our friends for going all out and showing our guests all the best parts of the Bahamas that we love. (If you don’t love being on and in the water, and camping in tight spaces, it ain’t for you!)
The next few days, after we put L & L on the plane, will continue to be filled with activities. Staniel Cay has a New Year regatta which encompasses things such as a Pirate Party (tonight), a fund-raising auction, a long-shot contest- where you drive golf balls off the dock into the water and chaser boats judge who has the longest drive, more happy hours, and the mixed-doubles race- which is selected cruisers (random from a sign-up) join the Bahamians on their traditional C-class sloops for a race around the harbor. Finally there is the cruising regatta, in which anyone with a sailboat can join in another race around the harbor. This is the most active time on this island, and there are mega-yachts who come every year at this time, and sponsor and support most of these activities which all benefit the local community.
After all this, the presently nice weather is supposed to pick up again with some stronger winds, so we will have to see where and when we go next. Anchorages are determined by direction and velocity of wind, and weather there is a swell or surge present which makes it very rocky and unpleasant on the boat.
I hope to post this email asap, though I have not had any success at raising internet, so I may be taking my computer to shore to see what service I can buy there. So, till then, wishing everyone the best for the new year. Stay healthy, happy and safe, and let us know what you are all up to these days.
With Love from Independence,
Sue & Paul
Although we did not have snow, we did have a week of strong “Christmas winds” and several days of rain and nasty squalls. These boat-bound days can either drive you a little stir-crazy, or force you into some creative or repair work. Of course, it is always an opportunity to do some needed cleaning and organizing in our small living space.
Independence was decorated with Christmas baubles on the inside, and rope LED lights on our mast and boom. The anchorage looks quite festive with many boats strung up with lights. On Christmas morning a flotilla of dinghies with passengers dressed festively in red, motored from boat to boat singing Christmas carols.
Our Christmas day was spent on a beautiful drift dive (8 of us) where we snagged some lobsters, swam with about 8 huge, and graceful spotted eagle rays, and ended up in a field of conch that we collected for later cleaning (and eating). Later, we all prepared the feast for our progressive dinner. Conch and lobster salads for appetizer, then mahi-mahi parmesan-i (our invention), followed by chocolate cake and coconut cream pie! Somehow we manage to concoct these feasts in our limited galleys.
The next few days were a whirlwind of activity, often starting with vigorous yoga on the beach followed by a refreshing swim (to get the sand of our sweaty bodies).
Paul and I are so grateful to our friends for going all out and showing our guests all the best parts of the Bahamas that we love. (If you don’t love being on and in the water, and camping in tight spaces, it ain’t for you!)
The next few days, after we put L & L on the plane, will continue to be filled with activities. Staniel Cay has a New Year regatta which encompasses things such as a Pirate Party (tonight), a fund-raising auction, a long-shot contest- where you drive golf balls off the dock into the water and chaser boats judge who has the longest drive, more happy hours, and the mixed-doubles race- which is selected cruisers (random from a sign-up) join the Bahamians on their traditional C-class sloops for a race around the harbor. Finally there is the cruising regatta, in which anyone with a sailboat can join in another race around the harbor. This is the most active time on this island, and there are mega-yachts who come every year at this time, and sponsor and support most of these activities which all benefit the local community.
After all this, the presently nice weather is supposed to pick up again with some stronger winds, so we will have to see where and when we go next. Anchorages are determined by direction and velocity of wind, and weather there is a swell or surge present which makes it very rocky and unpleasant on the boat.
I hope to post this email asap, though I have not had any success at raising internet, so I may be taking my computer to shore to see what service I can buy there. So, till then, wishing everyone the best for the new year. Stay healthy, happy and safe, and let us know what you are all up to these days.
With Love from Independence,
Sue & Paul
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
rescues and other good deeds...small world phenomena continues
Norman’s Cay
There’s been a little rustle in the recently established pattern of activity (wake up, radio & weather, breakfast, cleanup, get in the water w/all your gear on, return with catch of the day, clean catch, rinse gear & self, then on to dinner arrangements).
Yesterday, just after the 6 of us climbed into Scooter’s dinghy, “Big Red”, and were headed out the very narrow, shoaled-in cut, a new arrival made it’s way in and promptly went aground. This, after the Canadian=hailing sailboat assured us that yes, they had been in there before, thus they were familiar with the channel. So, we turned back to see if we could assist, and after a brief discussion, we convinced them that if they threw an anchor where they were stuck and waited for incoming tide, bad things would happen, most significantly the current would push them right up on the rocks.
So we spun them around with a dinghy on their stern & one on the bow, both pushing clockwise, so they could get back out the cut to anchor outside and wait for the tide to get in. THEN, we carried on with our dive plan.
Later, at high tide, it was our own turn to leave the Ship’s Channel harbor that we have been calling home the last 4-5 days. Bruce decided to dive the cut and inspect at close range for exit strategy, and found it so shoal, that he decided to mark with buoys a different route out of the harbor. Scooter led the way, then, with inches to spare, Different Drummer made it out, with Independence right behind.
Ah, good bye to a lovely little anchorage (so what, we each had to have 3 anchors out to keep ourselves in the deep water through both tides), where we had internet (!), friends caretaking the island, excellent snorkeling and diving all around, protection from wind, a place to burn trash, and relative peace from the outside world.
Next we found ourselves anchored at Highborne Cay, just outside an expensive, but nice marina with a well-stocked general store, fuel, a few mega-yachts, and some very nice people running the place.
Despite all those perks, the anchorage was rolly from swell, making it frustratingly uncomfortable for the 2 trawlers. The real tragedy was for our neighbors at this anchorage, in a less than 25’ sailboat, who lost their dinghy overnight. A young couple out of Maryland, just engaged, heading south to the Virgins to try and pick up some work once they get there. In other words, broke, and now without a dinghy & water.
We filled their jerry jug with water and gathered together a bag of provisions from us 3 boats, and Pete (the hero) donated his spare inflatable rowing dinghy to be returned to him in Georgetown via Paul & Melanie. (The young woman came from Chestertown where we know people in common-- previous cruising buddies of ours)
Needless to say, they were extremely grateful, and the intrepid trio, Indy, DD and Scooter, headed out of that #$@%% rolling anchorage to a better locale.
We have reached Norman’s Cay, the island once controlled by the notorious drug lord, Carlos (Joe) Lehder, and more recently a small resort & restaurant for the small planes that land at their airfield & the occasional cruisers. The island is now private and partly owned by a couple from Australia that we met in Southold last summer.
The small world phenomena continues.
There’s been a little rustle in the recently established pattern of activity (wake up, radio & weather, breakfast, cleanup, get in the water w/all your gear on, return with catch of the day, clean catch, rinse gear & self, then on to dinner arrangements).
Yesterday, just after the 6 of us climbed into Scooter’s dinghy, “Big Red”, and were headed out the very narrow, shoaled-in cut, a new arrival made it’s way in and promptly went aground. This, after the Canadian=hailing sailboat assured us that yes, they had been in there before, thus they were familiar with the channel. So, we turned back to see if we could assist, and after a brief discussion, we convinced them that if they threw an anchor where they were stuck and waited for incoming tide, bad things would happen, most significantly the current would push them right up on the rocks.
So we spun them around with a dinghy on their stern & one on the bow, both pushing clockwise, so they could get back out the cut to anchor outside and wait for the tide to get in. THEN, we carried on with our dive plan.
Later, at high tide, it was our own turn to leave the Ship’s Channel harbor that we have been calling home the last 4-5 days. Bruce decided to dive the cut and inspect at close range for exit strategy, and found it so shoal, that he decided to mark with buoys a different route out of the harbor. Scooter led the way, then, with inches to spare, Different Drummer made it out, with Independence right behind.
Ah, good bye to a lovely little anchorage (so what, we each had to have 3 anchors out to keep ourselves in the deep water through both tides), where we had internet (!), friends caretaking the island, excellent snorkeling and diving all around, protection from wind, a place to burn trash, and relative peace from the outside world.
Next we found ourselves anchored at Highborne Cay, just outside an expensive, but nice marina with a well-stocked general store, fuel, a few mega-yachts, and some very nice people running the place.
Despite all those perks, the anchorage was rolly from swell, making it frustratingly uncomfortable for the 2 trawlers. The real tragedy was for our neighbors at this anchorage, in a less than 25’ sailboat, who lost their dinghy overnight. A young couple out of Maryland, just engaged, heading south to the Virgins to try and pick up some work once they get there. In other words, broke, and now without a dinghy & water.
We filled their jerry jug with water and gathered together a bag of provisions from us 3 boats, and Pete (the hero) donated his spare inflatable rowing dinghy to be returned to him in Georgetown via Paul & Melanie. (The young woman came from Chestertown where we know people in common-- previous cruising buddies of ours)
Needless to say, they were extremely grateful, and the intrepid trio, Indy, DD and Scooter, headed out of that #$@%% rolling anchorage to a better locale.
We have reached Norman’s Cay, the island once controlled by the notorious drug lord, Carlos (Joe) Lehder, and more recently a small resort & restaurant for the small planes that land at their airfield & the occasional cruisers. The island is now private and partly owned by a couple from Australia that we met in Southold last summer.
The small world phenomena continues.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
iguana sumo wrestlers always startle the tourists...after dinner bowling on Independence
Ship’s Channel, Bahamas
It’s been a week. After a brief stop in Nassau, Independence and our pals on Different Drummer (a beautiful, blue-hulled Bristol), continued across the Banks to Alan’s Cay.
This little cluster of islands/rocks, is known for it’s abundant population of iguanas. They are protected by Bahamian law and so bountiful—they own the island. These pre-historic looking creatures do not have keen eyesight, but they can detect a morsel of food scraps in a flash. Once, sometimes twice a day, long triple engine cigarette-type boats, laden with tourists from Nassau speed over to Alan’s Cay, pull up to the short, sandy beach, disembarking the passengers for a feed-fest with the iguanas. They come out from the underbrush, the rocks, out of the branches of slow-lying shrubs, and waddle their way to the beach with forelegs bent out at right angles, walking like sumo wrestlers. Their long tails drag loopy paths in the soft sand, and as they approach some tidbits of lettuce or banana peel, there is a rush as one or two snap and fight for the piece of treasure. The quick aggression always startles the tourists, and they jump back with a squeal.
While the wind blew 3 fronts through our little anchorage, we saw several cruising boats come and go for a night or two, as this is mostly a stopping point for cruisers heading towards Georgetown.
Yesterday, both DD and Indy left that anchorage to come here, a mile or so north to join our friends on Scooter. This is a fun place, as we know the caretakers and friends of the owner of the little island. He runs a business from Nassau on those afore-mentioned tourist boats. After they stop to feed the iguanas for 15 minutes or so, they run up here to Ship’s Channel Cay, where there are some out-buildings, a bar, a dock, pretty little beach. They can snorkel, sunbathe, hike a trail, and have lunch. Then they are all ferried back on the boat (30 – 40 people) and run back to Nassau. A day in the islands!
Once the touristas are gone, we go ashore to hang and converse with the crew left behind.
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Today, we convened on Scooter in the morning to share Deb’s homemade muffins & plan out the day. At slack tide, we clambered into two of the 3 dinghies with wet-suits on, fins, masks, snorkels, spears and buckets all loaded in, and headed out of the anchorage to explore and hunt the beautiful reefs and coral heads around the islands. It was a good day, we returned with 3 Margates, a Hogfish and about 6 lobster. We also had a beautiful drift dive, and saw several turtles and beautiful fish and soft coral. (I know, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it).
We split the food preparation for tonight’s feast, which we will shortly bring to shore and share with the 6 people who are left on the island after working the tourist trade for the day. Last night, dinner was on Independence with the 6 of us, & we grilled the wahoo we had caught the other day. After dinner we bowled on the Wii that Scooter brought over!
Who knew there was so much to keep one occupied living on a small little space, floating in the middle of no civilization…
(Oh yes, and most importantly, there is wi-fi!!!)
Love to everyone,
S & P
It’s been a week. After a brief stop in Nassau, Independence and our pals on Different Drummer (a beautiful, blue-hulled Bristol), continued across the Banks to Alan’s Cay.
This little cluster of islands/rocks, is known for it’s abundant population of iguanas. They are protected by Bahamian law and so bountiful—they own the island. These pre-historic looking creatures do not have keen eyesight, but they can detect a morsel of food scraps in a flash. Once, sometimes twice a day, long triple engine cigarette-type boats, laden with tourists from Nassau speed over to Alan’s Cay, pull up to the short, sandy beach, disembarking the passengers for a feed-fest with the iguanas. They come out from the underbrush, the rocks, out of the branches of slow-lying shrubs, and waddle their way to the beach with forelegs bent out at right angles, walking like sumo wrestlers. Their long tails drag loopy paths in the soft sand, and as they approach some tidbits of lettuce or banana peel, there is a rush as one or two snap and fight for the piece of treasure. The quick aggression always startles the tourists, and they jump back with a squeal.
While the wind blew 3 fronts through our little anchorage, we saw several cruising boats come and go for a night or two, as this is mostly a stopping point for cruisers heading towards Georgetown.
Yesterday, both DD and Indy left that anchorage to come here, a mile or so north to join our friends on Scooter. This is a fun place, as we know the caretakers and friends of the owner of the little island. He runs a business from Nassau on those afore-mentioned tourist boats. After they stop to feed the iguanas for 15 minutes or so, they run up here to Ship’s Channel Cay, where there are some out-buildings, a bar, a dock, pretty little beach. They can snorkel, sunbathe, hike a trail, and have lunch. Then they are all ferried back on the boat (30 – 40 people) and run back to Nassau. A day in the islands!
Once the touristas are gone, we go ashore to hang and converse with the crew left behind.
------
Today, we convened on Scooter in the morning to share Deb’s homemade muffins & plan out the day. At slack tide, we clambered into two of the 3 dinghies with wet-suits on, fins, masks, snorkels, spears and buckets all loaded in, and headed out of the anchorage to explore and hunt the beautiful reefs and coral heads around the islands. It was a good day, we returned with 3 Margates, a Hogfish and about 6 lobster. We also had a beautiful drift dive, and saw several turtles and beautiful fish and soft coral. (I know, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it).
We split the food preparation for tonight’s feast, which we will shortly bring to shore and share with the 6 people who are left on the island after working the tourist trade for the day. Last night, dinner was on Independence with the 6 of us, & we grilled the wahoo we had caught the other day. After dinner we bowled on the Wii that Scooter brought over!
Who knew there was so much to keep one occupied living on a small little space, floating in the middle of no civilization…
(Oh yes, and most importantly, there is wi-fi!!!)
Love to everyone,
S & P
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