Settling in for a Florida Spring

Paul & Emyl getting ready to launch off Osprey

Now that we are re-situated with Independence in Plantation Key, we are accustoming ourselves to a new home base, and exploring the area. We have taken Osprey, our new 29-ft world-cat, out a few times now that all systems are (hopefully) working. First was a kite launch, in very shallow water in the bay just off our marina. Seychelle, Emyl and Paul all had great rides, and we got to chase Paul downwind in our fancy rescue boat.

We also had a fabulous dive adventure, guided by Tim, Seychelle's dad, who works with the marine scientists, and got us permission to dive the underwater research habitat. It has been abandoned for a short time, but the hundreds of fish- barracuda, snapper, grouper, etc-- have definitely not abandoned the area. The platforms and structures provide a nice habitat for prowling fish, we even saw a free-swimming green moray.
The most interesting part was swimming under and into a bell-like structure with oxygen at the top level. We could actually stand on a platform, with our heads inside this inverted bowl and talk to each other, as our heads were out of the water! Strange, indeed.

Tim and Paul at the helm

Later that day we were treated to a great dinner and inspiring sunset at the bay front home of Tim and Donna.

Although Donna & Tim took us out in her convertible-- This was not it!

Once again, delightful to make new friends, as we have taken our temporary leave of our old friends both at home and in the Bahamas. Good times, new times.

The marina that is home for now, is also a community park, featuring a first class olympic-size pool, tennis courts, basketball courts, sport fields and a skate park. There is also a small beach from which you can rent hobie cats, kayaks, etc. Today we saw a rescued and rehabilitated loggerhead turtle being released back to the bay at this beach.

Independence at Plantation Cay Marina

The Park also has an amphitheater. We have been swimming laps in the wonderful pool.

15-18 yr old loggerhead turtle

Cruising Again

March 2012

Keeping it brief-- lack of entries in this blog for the 2011 cruising season, due to our Bahamas adventure being cut short. We returned to Ft. Lauderdale in early January (Sue by plane, Paul following with Independence and
intrepid crewmate, Debi). Sue proceeded to visit various back doctors, MRI centers, chiropractors, acupuncturists for severe sciatica issues. After scheduling and canceling one surgery, finding an incredibly well-respected neuro-surgeon, and re-scheduling surgery with her, the body finally decided to start healing on its own. Wel
l, almost 4 months of invalid status, and finally returning to normality, the doc says don't do the surgery. How can you argue? Especially when you feel you have your life back!

Meanwhile, Paul remained happily busy at the World Cat dealer on a daily basis as

they put all finishing touches on our new baby: a 29-ft., center console power cat with twin 250hp Yamahas. Snap!

We look forward to bringing "Osprey" home to spend her time taking us around the East End and New England.

Shortly after the initial launching, Lisa arrived from Boston to look after her post-surgery Mom, who was actually pretty fine by that point, without surgery. Although the visit was short, we made a good attempt at enjoying every minute.

Johnny Dep's boat in Ft. Lauderdale

Cruise ship in Port Everglades

A fun place to grab a hamburger and a beer

(and feed the tarpon)

Without the time and weather to return to Bahamas, we decided to spend a month down in the Florida Keys. Never having gone there by boat, it was time to step out of our comfort zone. Although the wind blew fiercely for over a week, and threatened another week of same, we woke up Friday morning, cancelled our hair-cut appointments and grabbed the one and a half day of calming wind and seas that we saw in the forecast. Our first day took us to Miami Beach, where we stayed at the base of South Beach and had a pleasant and filling dinner with Capt. Joe P., our ol' buddy.

Early Saturday morning, out of Miami, Independence headed down the ICW, passing Miami in the morning light. South of Key Biscayne, we headed west from the ICW to proceed south on Hawk's Channel, or the passage east of the chain of islands, but west of the long corral reef running alongside the Keys and providing a buffer from sea swells, as well as terrific snorkeling and dive sites.

It was a great passage, and by afternoon, we decided to pull in to a marina at Key Largo on the ocean side. The entry was interesting, including the obligatory "securite" call on the radio-- once for the approach to the ridiculously narrow entrance at the breakwater, and again at a turning at the end of the canal, affectionately dubbed as "crash corner" for obvious reasons.

Once inside the tight space and tied up in an even tighter slip, we began to wonder if this was a big mistake, since we knew the winds were picking up that evening and on for the foreseeable future, as far as getting back out on the ocean side...

Although the digs were a bit "ghetto", the people were all extremely friendly, and when we walked across to the bay side later, for a sunset beer and then dinner at a local, and fabulous diner, we were happy for the interesting diversion.

Sunset Key Largo

This morning, however, we took the plunge, and decided to head back out in building winds and seas to come a bit further south to a marina and park on the bay side of Islamadora. Yes, the water is very shallow, and thankfully yes, it is mostly soft sand. We have not left our track in the sand yet, but....

We have now arrived at, ok, I feel like it is paradise. After the hustle and bustle of Ft. Lauderdale, the oh-so chic-ness of Miami Beach, here we are with the friendliest people in the world, a beautiful, new, olympic-swimming pool and park area, a sweet beach with bar-b-q and hobie cat rentals, tennis courts, trails, basketball, ampitheater-- all in a very laid-back atmosphere. We both swam long laps in the pool, and enjoyed reading in the lounge chairs. Paul took a bike ride and chatted with Hal Jones on the dock. I even jumped in the water off the back of our boat to swim with 2 very friendly manatees, who let me scratch their bellies!

Oh, there seems to be no TV service. Watch me cry. :)

Maybe not attractive, but certainly friendly manatee!

Happy Holidays

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Pipes Cay, Exumas

Well, where to start? Sorry, for the lack of updates recently.

For the past 2 weeks, My Sharonna, Mattina, Different Drummer and Independence have been anchored in this beautiful little cove that seems to be ours alone. We have great protection from the NE winds that have been howling for about 20 days now, and believe it or not, we are perfectly happy in our daily routines with no interruptions from the “outside world”, other than the small planes flying overhead to land at nearby Staniel Cay.

Mattina,
Different Drummer
& My Sharonna

Now that I have returned from a quick trip to Miami for treatment for my inflamed herniated disk, I can hopefully get back to a more normalized activity on Independence. I sure do count my blessings, when I am faced with physical handicap, and begin to recover!

I am so overjoyed to be back on Independence that I have begun my Christmas baking in anticipation of my beautiful daughter and her family joining us over the holiday!

The pace of living is our own. Morning, is single side band radio time. Listening in on the weather forecast, then possibly chatting with some far-off friends. The girls who are not back-traumatized usually head to the beach for early morning yoga, while the others pick at some breakfast and a second cup of coffee, or maybe tackle some repair or maintenance project on the boat.

Depending on wind and tide, the day’s activity may consist of packing up the whaler (shared by DD and Sharonna) with loads of kite gear and some coolers and heading around to the windward, yet shallow side of the island. This requires about 20 knots or higher, so there has been a fair amount of kiting these days.

Debi, Wayne, Kristina, Matt & Paul

Winding up dinner on Independence

Today, however, with one of the first days of less wind, there is a dinghy headed out for some diving and hunting. Let’s see if the guys come back with some lobster, or grouper, or conch or all of the above. Or nothing, which is also ok—we do not starve around here!

So Greetings and Happy Holidays to all our friends. Whether you are skiing, shopping, Christmas caroling, baking, or just enjoying receiving your holiday greetings- we hold you in our thoughts, and wish you an absolutely beautiful New Year!

All the best from Sue and Paul on our floating home, Independence!

Emerald Rock

The following post is actually an older entry (as dated) that is only now being posted, along with a more current entry. Apologies for the old news…

Monday, December 5, 2011

Emerald Rock at Warderick Wells

Exuma Land and Sea Park

The Park, a no take zone by land and sea, was established in 1958 to preserve and maintain the delicate ecological balance of marine life in the Bahamas.

This is a direct quote from their literature. They also provide, for a charge, moorings throughout the different anchorages in the area, as well as wi-fi, which is only accessible if you are moored near the park headquarters.

There are many maintained and marked trails, as well as beautiful snorkeling opportunities. Unfortunately, the strong weather system that has kept us here the last 3 days, has also kept us out of the water. Hikes, however have been a daily activity, and yoga on the beach, and for the intrepid few- some kite-boarding and wind-surfing.

Two nights ago, we met some of our floating neighbors on the beach for a Happy Hour gathering. One young family on a charter was supposed to be back to Nassau by today, but the weather has been prohibitive. The rest of us, who are here for the season, pretty much take it in stride, and enjoy each sunset and appreciate each rain squall for it’s rinsing properties.

Cali and Farley, the anchor dogs...

Independence 2011 Cruising Season Begins

Independence in the locks in Stuart after launching

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

If we’re going to do it, let’s go.

These were the words that Paul said to me this morning, after the final check on off-shore weather, between Ft. Lauderdale and Nassau for the next two days. We were as ready as we could be, having returned the rental car last night, after the last run through Total Wine (priorities!) and packing the big cooler with ice and fresh produce.

Many of our cruising buddies had already made the crossing a week ago, which we were glad we missed—as it was a rough one for a trawler. So they will have a jump on us on nabbing the season’s first lobster and maybe even getting the kite boards wet. We became the designated boat to pick up those last minute bits of equipment and provision that always crop up.

So, finally, good bye civilization as we American consumers know it, and off to the Islands, and catch as catch can.

Out of the cut, after topping off the fuel tanks, we were amidst an array of fishing boats anxious to get out for the morning bite, after a week of steady NE blow and big seas. The roughest part was that initial 2 hours, as the seas were still settling down from the week of strong wind, and we soon separated ourselves from the fleet, as we took our easterly course away from the Florida coast and the fading skyline of Miami and Ft. Lauderdale.

Thankfully, seas settled down, so Paul and I could eat some lunch, and get the fishing lines out. While he was resting down below, about 30 dolphin approached the bow of Independence for a spirited swim, leading the bow wake, riding the waves. They gradually peeled off, and I noticed behind me, as the pod regrouped, they were leaping clear out of the water, doing flips and generally showing off how to have a great time. Dolphin remind me of puppies, living for the sheer joy of each moment.

We have picked up a lot of radio chatter as we approach North Rock, our first waypoint. This is the entrance to the Bahama banks by Bimini. All the other cruisers who also took advantage of this weather window are congregating as they pass this waypoint. Paul and I enjoy a tasty dinner before sunset, which includes the best filet mignon steak I have ever tasted—courtesy of Matt and Lindsay in a rush package mailed to us just before we left.

By, nightfall we have passed through a fleet of about 20 boats (mostly sail) and have taken the lead through North Channel into the Tongue of the Ocean, for the final leg to Nassau. Our 1-hour snatches of sleep are not quite enough to stay lively, but we make it in together by 5am Thanksgiving day, and tie ourselves up at a designated slip in Nassau Harbor Club.

A couple more hours of sleep, and now we find ourselves waiting for them to open to clear customs/immigration, and hopefully press on to the Exumas.

We are so thankful to be here! Everyone enjoy your Thanksgiving!

Cruising comes to an end

As our cruising season comes to a close this year, we are once again deeply grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty, adventures, camaraderie, excitement and challenges of this wonderful life-style.

We often reflect on the choices that brought us to this point, how fortunate we are to have the ability to continue to scramble around on a pitching deck, jump on and off a sea-rocked dinghy, climb steep and jagged trails, and dive to depths of the ocean to view beautiful corals and schools of colorful fish.

Giving up restaurants, malls and TV is a fine trade for the daily appreciation of each moment and each loaf of bread pulled, piping hot, out of the oven; the deep satisfaction of serving an inspired platter of sushi, prepared from the fish reeled in from the back deck of Independence; the excitement of contacting loved ones back home with challenging phone and internet connections; constant appreciation for the fresh water we drink that has been transformed from ocean water by reverse osmosis; keen awareness of the night sky, phases of the moon and tidal conditions. These simple, basic yet profound truths are the building blocks of our day and we are delighted to share them through this blog with whoever cares to imagine an alternative life-- floating on a boat!

Our last days at Rum Cay were enhanced by the arrival of Linda and Steve, who we picked up at the airstrip in the red jeep, and gave them not a moment's rest! After a conch salad lunch (we had caught and prepared), we geared them up with snorkels & fins and jumped on the dinghy for a spectacular drift dive over the wreck of the Conqueror. Steve, the first-timer, was totally game and almost speared a fish on the first try! Dinner was the usual group effort at the marina restaurant, with fresh, delicious, gourmet results.

The next day we left Rum Cay 'till next year, :( Fished our way to Salt Pond, Long Island (yup, the Bahamas Long Island) and after anchoring, swimming and showering, dinghied to the beach to hike up to a local restaurant that was serving a buffet of Bahamian treats.

The next day, after renting a car, we took in the sights: The Blue Hole, Clarencetown, with 2 historic churches built by Father Jerome (an Anglican priest, later became a Catholic priest, but started out as an architect!); back to Independence to clean up, then to another restaurant called Chez Pierre (go figure!).

Loved the visit L & S-- we had such a great time!

View from the church tower in Clarencetown

Linda & Steve about to jump into the blue hole

In the Out of the Blue kitchen

Our 2011 cruising year came to a close, after we returned to Georgetown to enjoy the Annual Family Island Regatta, which is a premier celebration in the Bahamas. Traditional, wooden, Bahamian sailing sloops arrive in the harbor, as food shacks are constructed and pop up all along the small peninsula called Regatta Point. Bahamians from all islands arrive mostly by sea-- mailboat, cargo boats, support vessels for the sloops, etc.

During the day, the harbor is enhanced by the sight of these beautiful sails chasing the buoys that mark the race course. Small dinghies, chase boats, & committee boats follow the racers, cheering and taking photos.

By night, Regatta Point is pulsing with loud music, locals dressed to party, and the smells of Bahamian fare wafting through the air. Conch fritters, fish fry, chicken, coleslaw, conch salad, all types of souse, and of course beer and gin and coconut water are offered at every stand.

Our friends from Sampson Cay, the number 1 and 2 A-class winners this year, sport a T-shirt proclaiming "On Land We Friends". The jiving and kidding of competing crews is in evidence, but out on the water the battle is for real.

Dinner at one of the "shacks"

Support & sailing crew of Tida Wave and Lady Muriel

Finally, as a break in the winds & seas came, Independence took the opportunity to make her way up the Exuma chain to Norman's Cay, where we re-connected with several friends and stayed a couple of days as we obsessively checked nautical weather reports for appropriate weather to make our way east.

Our crossing (first Noman's to Nassau, then Nassau across the Tongue of the Ocean to the banks by Chubb Cay, continuing on towards Bimini at nightfall, then across the Gulf Stream to Ft. Lauderdale by dawn) was thankfully mostly uneventful. The wind and seas behind us, no squalls.

Civilization is a shock. Pulling in to the inlet at Port Everglades, then the short distance to the marina, we are surrounded by opulent homes and row upon row of million dollar mega-yachts. Shops, cars, bicycles, pedestrians cram the scenery. We are back.

Various Adventures

Petroglyphs from Hartford Cave

We circumnavigated the island on "Rock Steady" and made a stop at Hartford Cave where the Lucayan Indians had left their mark. These are the natives that Columbus found here and on San Salvador, who were subsequently wiped out by slavery and disease. The cave is only accessible by sea-- we anchored close & swam in with the calm surge that day.

On this day, we took several dinghys around to Salt Pond for a day of picnic, mud spa and turtle spotting. Oh, we came home with lots of conch, & a few grouper speared just outside the creek opening, ending the day with another fabulous pot-luck!

Hard to see, but this pre-historic looking creature is sometimes called a shovel-nose lobster or a slipper lobster. I found it snorkeling a way off from the dinghy and grabbed it (with my dive gloves on) and swam it back for my first successful hunt! It was the last day before taking lobster is banned, for spawning season.