Thursday, October 7, 2010

October; Harvest, Change & Reflection


Up north in our paradise on the East End of Long Island, we are starting to feel the chill. Summer is over, the air is clean and crisp, and colors are deep and true. A beautiful cheese pumpkin sits on my front stoop waiting to be cooked into a pie & other assorted goodies. Farm stands are overflowing with bounty of the harvest-- the new additions are the many varieties of apples, seckel pears, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, and of course, the colorful winter squashes.

The summer has been grand! Paul & I immersed ourselves in our non-profit organization, the East End Student Film Project, till the end of August. We saw over 50 young kids pass through the animation & filmmaking classes we offered in a great studio space downtown. The EESFP season culminated in the 5th annual student film fest, which played to an overflow crowd and was followed by a great wrap party at our favorite cafe--Aldo's.

After a brief break, the family tumbled headlong into the Great Wedding Event. Lisa and Lance organized the most spectacular, beautiful, (all right, I'll even say "story-book") wedding at a local vineyard--overlooking the bay and Shelter Island. The food, dancing and company were unsurpassed. The event went by so quickly, Lisa & I both agree we would love to be invited back to experience it all over again! For two weeks, family from across the globe came and went, & many pleasant meals were shared by huge gatherings.

As we pack up the outdoor furniture, and replace screens with storm windows, our thoughts begin to focus on the boxes to be packed and sent to Florida in order to shift our lives onto our floating winter home. It's a very different process, now that we have decided to leave Independence in Stuart, stored indoors, over the summer months. The long and eventful, and sometimes not so eventful (read boring) trip down the east coast and mostly in the ICW is for now, a thing of the past. There are certain stops we will miss, but we have gained extra weeks of beautiful fall weather in our northern backyard.

On the 20th of October (less than 2 weeks!) we will fly down to Florida & begin the process of launching Independence, finishing up work/maintenance, heading down to Ft. Lauderdale for complete provisioning, fueling, etc and then we aim to look for our crossing weather window some time in mid-November.

Can't wait to see all our cruising pals, and shift our gears into the small living space we call home on Independence! Hope you all had a great summer...

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Fwd: Catching up with the ground hog

Georgetown, Exuma

Friends!

Hard to believe that almost a month has gone by since my last post.  Although we are in Georgetown at this moment (as when I last wrote), we have moved around a bit in the interim.

First we went to Rum Cay, catching a beautiful wahoo on the way, and arriving just in time to spend an evening with Sue & Oscar, before they flew off-island for a visit to Dominica & friends who run an eco-resort there.  Generous, as always, they supplied us with the keys to their golf cart, and access to their home (internet & washing machine).  We made use of their golf cart, with a fun excursion to the north beach, and I spent a few relaxing hours in shade on their beautiful beach.

Every morning began with a bike ride to the airstrip and back, first morning w/ Sue and Oscar, and after they left, I rode with Suzette.  Suzette, Roy & guests on George's beautiful boat, Electra, were tied up just alongside us in the marina, & it was fun to catch up with them for a few days.

Bobby, with his usual generosity of spirit and fun, hosted and kept us all busy with small boat trips around the island to Salt Pond, various remote beaches, coral reefs and other adventure spots.  We returned from all of these with conch, lobster, whelk, and otherwise delicious and delectable treasures.  Evenings would find us up at the Out of the Blue restaurant, in the kitchen, conjuring up dishes, while we talked and sipped wine and saki.  The fish and pizza (on pizza nights) was all roasted in the outside wood-fired oven.

Needless to say, the nights ran late, & exhausted we fell into bed, within minutes of deep slumber.

Paul and I managed several deep dives on the wall just outside the marina.  The deep trenches, and coral formations were as stunning as ever.  After about a week, we took a calm weather day to cruise back to Georgetown, & caught a Mahi on the way back.

Georgetown activities then took over.  Let's see..  yoga and beach walks in the morning, trips into town for laundry, garbage drop-off, or food shopping.  Afternoons might find us at volleyball beach for a rousing game of regulation fours, or maybe just chatting & visiting with other cruisers at Chat 'n Chill.  By then, the happy hour and/or dinner plans have been made with a small or large group- on the beach or someone's boat.  There is usually an option for weekly night activities, such as: Texas Hold 'em, Trivial Pursuit Night, Rockin' Dances, or in town- Rake 'n Scrape (the live Bahamian music).
Being in Georgetown is a different kind of exhausting.

A few days ago, with some settled weather, a few of us cruised to Conception Island (about 35 miles from Gtown, or 5 hours for Independence).  Conception is north of Rum Cay, & is a small, un-inhabited island in the middle of the ocean.  The water is even more crystal clear, staghorn & elkhorn coral formations ring the north side of the island. (similar to Rum Cay)  Picking your way through these formations on the dinghy is quite challenging if the sun is not directly overhead for good visibility, but once you find a spot to anchor and jump in with your mask & fins, it is like a magic wonderland.

We had a pot-luck feast on the beach, & a moonrise bonfire.  Although, we did not catch a fish on our lines on the way over, Paul managed to spear a beautiful yellow-fin grouper to share with the group.  The next day, the boys went out hunting again, and came back with an even bigger grouper!  What a haul!

This morning we left the anchorage at Conception (and the rolling surge), and fished our way back to Georgetown.  We were one of four boats out there, trying everything to snag a fish (following weed lines, birds, hitting favorite pinnacle spots, lures and bait...) and we all got skunked this time.  Where did the fish go?  Oh, I know, that's why they call it fishing, not catching.

So, it's late, I think I have an internet connection so I will send this off with our best wishes & greetings to everyone.

Cheers,
Sue & Paul
Independence

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Windy day of kites, Foodie day of walks

Let me begin by saying, that after a long spell without internet, I have access for a short time, so I am pasting a previously written post, as a way of update.

Also, our hearts go out to the poor, and long-suffering Haitians, who now are having to endure this most recent natural tragedy.  We had a brief time of alertness for a possible tsunami watch, which was quickly dismissed, but decided we would be safest in our boats, but not in a harbor if that really came to pass.  Do we begin to sense that this natural planet is having a hard time balancing in a more subtle way the trauma that has been persistently inflicted by human progress?  This is perhaps a topic too wide to broach here, so I will leave it there for now.

We continue to count our blessings for every day, every moment which allows us to enjoy the beauty around us, as well as the tragedy.

Before all these pressing thoughts, the following is how our days have progressed! :

Monday, January 11, 2010
Georgetown, Grand Exuma

There are days that begin, no plan, quiet and easy, with the standard procedure – turn on the single side-band radio for the morning weather report, start up the generator, and boil water for coffee or tea.

This morning started out thus, the wind was still steady & strong from the passage of last night's cold front.  (Which, incidentally, has also clearly reinforced the reason we call it a COLD front.  I know, I know, most of you who are further north are thinking, "you have no idea—you want to talk cold???"  yeah, I know- but when the warmest thing you have on board is a thin fleece, and a foul weather jacket, the chill in the persistent wind is hard to combat).

Anyway, hot tea in hand, fried eggs and fresh bread on my plate, the day stretched out ahead luxuriously empty of commitment.  Perhaps a walk along the beach at low tide, to search out some more emerald nerites (fabulous, tiny, emerald-green snail shells).  Or maybe a little baking, or perhaps simply sitting on the bridge, protected by the enclosure and reading my book.

As those thoughts were percolating in my brain, the radio cackled with the chatter of the "kiter dudes"—Wayne and Charlie, who are arranging a trip down to Man of War Cay, the perfect place for this northeast wind to kite board today.  "Paul, are you in?"

Understand, that Paul took some lessons last year, and over the summer invested in some equipment which he had yet to use, plus a new second kite, which he recently purchased. (you need different sizes for different wind conditions).  Still at the beginner stage, he needed practice, and some support folks to go out with—like now.

I decided to go along for the adventure, packing extra warm clothes in a dry bag, & a small cooler with lunch.
To get there, (a 4-mile dinghy ride,) we loaded up 2 dinghies with 6 kites, 3 boards, rigging paraphernalia, dry bags, lunches and 5 people bundled up in wet gear and foul-weather jackets.  We splashed our way down-wind, being pushed not only by the wind, but the fetch of 2-3 ft. waves rolling down the length of the harbor.  Phew!

"There" turned out to be a huge rolling stretch of white sand bay bottom, totally exposed now, at dead-low tide, the patterns in the sand creating ripple-like wave effects, and numerous small, gray starfish lying scattered under a thin coating of sand.  This giant sand-bar would eventually be covered by water, as the day wore on, and the tide seeped in.  Down wind, of this perch the water is all shallow, and great for boarding, as you can step (or fall) off your board, and be standing less than knee-deep in water.  Makes for an easier start, apparently.

The wind was unrelenting, which is great for the kites, but this was so cold, even the "tough-boys" were freezing.  Everyone got out for some good runs, though Paul is just learning to get on the board, & was trying out the brand new kite.

Fortunately for some of us, we begged a ride back (against the wind & waves) in a larger, go-fast dinghy from a new friend, while Wayne & Paul struck out on their own in the other 2 dinghies.

Everyone returned to their boats, safe, happy, tired and cold!  Hot showers, yay!  We rinsed off the gear & hung it around the boat to dry, then, finally, Paul & I settled in to a nice spaghetti & wahoo meatball sauce dinner with fresh green salad.  A glass of red wine, and a movie (for Paul), while I type up this e-mail.  I guarantee, when our heads hit the pillow, there will be about 30 seconds, and then Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010
The next day.

Yes, it was a sound sleep, and we woke up to… easing winds, calm seas, and sunny skies.  (Still chilly, but as the clouds dissipated, the sun was very warming)

Paul started the day today with a long walk along the Stocking Island beach with Wayne and the mini-dog, Callie.  I did yoga on the beach with the girls.

After preparing a fish salad, from the left over Dorado we caught several days ago, we packed that into the dinghy, and headed to Top of the World, which is Paul & Melanie's paradise piece of Elizabeth Island (the next one down from our anchorage).

They had arranged a beautiful luncheon with our mutual friends- Susa and Peter (from Montauk); and Suzanne & Steve.  Yup, that would be 3 "Sue's" and 2 "Paul's".  We sat out on their deck and devoured a nice chicken chili/stew and a loaf of delicious, crusty bread (Melanie's 48-hour bread, or some such thing) that accounted for 80% of the lunch time conversation.  Laughs and good times….

Later we took a walk on some of their trails, up to the gazebo at the high point (Top of the World), with a view of Georgetown and the entire harbor, and down to one of the pocket beaches, before winding our way back to the boathouse.

By the time we finally rousted ourselves to dinghy back to Independence, it was almost time to prepare dinner, which I did, after admiring a beautiful sunset from our bridge with  Paul and Charlie, whose wife Liz flew home for a week of work.  We then enjoyed a simple vegetable stir-fry, chocolate biscotti, more good conversation, and a late (9 pm!) good night to another amazing day.


Love to all of you,
Sue and Paul

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Adventure at anchor

Pipe's Creek, Exuma

I sit and write this as it howls 25 to 30 knots outside.  Paul & I have had a good breakfast (cheese & pepper omelet, ham & toast), plenty of hot tea, & we are now warm & cozy after this morning's frightening wake-up alarm.

Here's the story:
At sunrise, Paul turned on the single-side band radio for the morning Bahama's net weather report.  As I  came up to the salon from below to turn on my iphone to record the report, Paul was anxiously peering forward over our bow, with the short-wave radio mike in one hand.

The large trawler who was anchored upwind of us, was dragging anchor and bearing down on us, thankfully with his engines on.  He was calling another boat on the radio who was not responding, as Paul repeatedly called to him.  Finally, he responded to Paul and immediately accepted Paul's offer for assistance.

Paul jumped in the dinghy, as I handed him the "Look bucket" & he headed up against the wind, current & chop to better assess the situation around the dragging trawler.  It seems he could not raise his dragging anchor (all chain) due to a windlass failure, so Paul helps him release his second anchor, it does not grab, and now both his anchors are dragging.  (Most of us are currently anchored with 2 anchors because of the wind direction change overnight).

Next thing I know, I hear our chain vibrating and rattling, & conclude that he has now snagged our chain, which is right now got all the load holding Independence in place.  By the way, on one side of this channel in which we are anchored, is a rocky shore, and on the other side a shallow, hard, bar.

I hail Paul with the dinghy over to alert him & confirm what he already suspected.  He jumps back on Independence, starts up the engines, and tries to tell the other captain to release all of his main anchor into the water.  At this point, his second anchor has grabbed (however tentatively) & his boat starts swinging on that anchor perilously close to our bow.  If that anchor gives & he moves in any direction, he will uproot our chain & anchor, & we both go!

Now Bruce & Debi have arrived in their dinghy to assist—Paul has shed his wet clothes for a wetsuit (it's chilly, & the water is warmer than the air), & with fins & snorkel, jumps in Debi's dinghy while Bruce & I stay on Independence with fenders & ready to drive the boat if we come loose.  Paul dives the entangled chains, in the very strong current, and manages to free them from each other, at the same time the guy's second anchor releases it's hold, & the boat swings within spitting distance of our bow, poised to ensnare our second anchor rode on the other side!

He guns it forward, and thank goodness, our chain is now clear and we are once again 2 separate units.  Now Bruce has jumped in the dinghy that Deb is driving to go to that boat and assist with pulling up his chain & anchors.  He is joined by Paul & they both haul up both anchors manually, &  finally help him reset both back where he started.  The poor couple are in virtual shock (especially his wife), as the boat is new to them, and with the equipment failure, they were at a loss with just the 2 of them.  He was very grateful & promised Paul to "pay it forward" & help the next guy who is in trouble.

And so… "the code of the sea"—we all look out for each other.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Monday, December 28, 2009

Holidays at Staniel Cay

Hope everyone has had a wonderful holiday, maybe with loved ones, maybe shoveling some snow…

Independence is at anchor just off the docks at Staniel Cay.  Our "cruising family" has remained together, and continue to be on the same basic schedule, at least until after the new year.  (Kaya made an earlier departure to make it to Georgetown for Junkanoo).

In the Bahamas, Boxing Day is the day after Christmas and a day the locals acknowledge—everything remains closed, it is a holiday.  The tradition of Boxing Day, comes from the days of British Loyalist who, on the day after Christmas, boxed up all the left-overs and gave them to the slaves, along with a day off.

On Christmas Eve, Paul & I went into town along with our friend, Sam, and joined an open-house gathering with ham, turkey, all the trimmings—hosted by a local family who invite all the islanders and cruisers every year.

The Scooter's have 4 family members visiting (staying on the island), and the DD's have 1 visitor on the boat.  In the "mi casa es su casa" tradition, we also share guests and join in many group activities and general hanging out.

On a day when the northeast wind was blowing with a big swell coming in on the windward side (eastern side of the Exuma chain), we all dinghied up to a place called Bubble Bath.  There is a natural pool formation on the western side of a cut out in the rocks, where the foamy breakers crash through when the seas are just right.  We try to hold our own & swim against the waves, immersed in the foamy bubbles.  Cries of "here comes a big one!" and "Is that all you've got???   Bring it!!"  echo around the inlet.  Our version of a water park…

We later snorkeled a drift dive and spotted some huge, beautiful spotted eagle rays.  Between all these activities, we talk about food and prepare for the next meal.

Christmas dinner we all went out (no one had to cook!)  I did spend the day fighting for the only working washing machine and drier at the marina, and ended up stringing up laundry all over Independence.  But now we have clean sheets, towels and clothes!

Nothing much more to report, but we are getting ready for the New Year festivities, which include an auction, a golf-driving contest (which I won for the Ladies division last year!—bought everyone drinks with the credit at the yacht club), a Bahamian C-class sloop regatta, and the cruiser's race.  Oh yes, and the annual Pirate Party.  Every year since Johnny Depp bought his island down here, we hope he will show up!

Well, with or without Johnny, we will all be extending you the warmest wishes for the end of 2009 and all the best for the year to come!

P& S
Independence
Staniel Cay, Exumas

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

R we having fun yet?

Woohoo!  Here we still are at Norman's Cay.  Why?  Because we like it!  Not because we are weathered in, by one cold front after another (as was the constant scenario last year)

The anchorage is comfortable, and roomy.  We are surrounded by many vessels, 4 of whom are good cruising pals.  Six of the 8 to 10 folks we are hanging with, are into either kite-boarding or wind-surfing, and so when the knot-reader indicates 13 or more knots of wind, out come the toys, and the water sports begin.  The remainder of us, most likely are hanging on the beach, playing scrabble, swimming, or  taking chase in a dinghy & rescuing a stray kiter who can't make it back to starting point.

The beers and snacks come out around 3, as we all, tired and happy, re-group on our beach chairs & blankets—dogs happily snug in the sand, after a day of romping and barking at the passing kite-boarders.
Another reason it is so pleasant for this activity, is that the winds, weather easterly or southerly merely blow the boards onto the beach or up into the shallow pond at the north end of the anchorage, not out to sea!

Yesterday (no wind, so the guys went spear-fishing), we wound up the day with an early pot-luck on the beach (which we now refer to as "our beach", and have built a nice table from the ruins of some shacks in the woods).  The meal was really more like this incredible cook-off, since everyone outdid themselves with delicious offerings.  This was the menu:  Carnitas (a Mexican pulled-pork taco with toppings), lasagna, beautiful wahoo/avocado sushi rolls, a creamy lobster casserole, conch salad, grouper fingers—fabulous!  The lobster, conch and grouper were all freshly harvested, the wahoo just a few days prior.

Then we sat around the small fire we made, sipping wine and playing catch-phrase, till the glasses were empty and our bellies full, we climbed into our dinghies and flashlight aimed our way back to our floating homes for a night of dreams and renewal.

Today, I managed a bike ride (Wayne & Sharon off-loaded their bikes yesterday), this being one of the
few cays to have a road (I use the word quite loosely).  The girls have also been starting each day on the beach with a yoga session, before paddling back to our boats on our kayaks for breakfast.

Paul has managed to hook us into a reasonable internet connection, using the Bahamas cell tower connections.  He has become the most important boat in this flotilla, as all our buddies vie for access & come visiting with their computers in hand.  The nearest cell tower is not too far off, so we are in luck right now.  It will change as we head south.

So, if all goes well, I will actually be able to send this off once again, and hope it reaches you all, so that you can give us a "hi, right back at ya"!

Wishing everyone good times and good health,

Sue and Paul
Independence
Bahamas

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Hot December

Norman's Cay, Exumas

Our second anchorage, after leaving Nassau.  We arrived at our first stop- Alan's Cay on Tuesday, happy to be reunited with Different Drummer and Scooter, both cruising pals since our first year.

Falling in to familiar routines, we basically had the anchorage to ourselves, took off together in our dinghies for a morning of diving the reefs, and coming back with lobster and conch.  We shared a meal on Independence, and the following night a meal on DD.

I enjoyed some kayaking around the little cay, and dropped off my food garbage for the resident iguanas. (They particularly enjoyed the cabbage remains).

Deb had to fly home for business emergency, so DD headed south less than 10 miles to Compass.  We decided to follow as well, but cruised on the sound side, as the wind was mild and put out some fishing lines on the way down—fishing the wall.

Just as we were getting ready to come in the cut to the anchorage—zzzzzzzing! Fish on!
Landed a giant Wahoo to make all our friends we were meeting in the anchorage happy.  (No one as happy as Paul!)  In addition to gifts for their freezers,  dinner for 7 on Independence—fresh grilled Wahoo.

Now we are happily playing with Tina & Matt on Mattina (!) Bruce, the  bachelor for a week, Sharon & Wayne & some other cruisers enjoying this anchorage.  I say playing, because there is a perfect beach blanket bingo beach here—and when the wind is right, like this morning, some of the gang is kite-boarding or wind-surfing.  I am happy tooling around on my kayak & taking long walks.

Swimming with my hat & sunglasses to remind me to keep my face dry, as I am still waiting for the stitches to dissolve and all to completely heal before I risk immersion.

There is an airstrip on this island (used to be for the drug runner who owned the joint) and a restaurant that opens in the afternoon and serves $11 hot dogs and $12 burgers and fish fingers.  Well, it takes a lot to run a food joint in a god-forsaken place like this (generators breaking down continually, supplies being flown in, etc...)

So, island life..  thank you very much, I'll take it!  Be baking some bread soon—try out some new recipes.  So far no terrible fronts coming through, so the weather has been on it's best behavior!

Wish you all the best,
S & P
Independence

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