Windy day of kites, Foodie day of walks

Let me begin by saying, that after a long spell without internet, I have access for a short time, so I am pasting a previously written post, as a way of update.

Also, our hearts go out to the poor, and long-suffering Haitians, who now are having to endure this most recent natural tragedy.  We had a brief time of alertness for a possible tsunami watch, which was quickly dismissed, but decided we would be safest in our boats, but not in a harbor if that really came to pass.  Do we begin to sense that this natural planet is having a hard time balancing in a more subtle way the trauma that has been persistently inflicted by human progress?  This is perhaps a topic too wide to broach here, so I will leave it there for now.

We continue to count our blessings for every day, every moment which allows us to enjoy the beauty around us, as well as the tragedy.

Before all these pressing thoughts, the following is how our days have progressed! :

Monday, January 11, 2010
Georgetown, Grand Exuma

There are days that begin, no plan, quiet and easy, with the standard procedure – turn on the single side-band radio for the morning weather report, start up the generator, and boil water for coffee or tea.

This morning started out thus, the wind was still steady & strong from the passage of last night's cold front.  (Which, incidentally, has also clearly reinforced the reason we call it a COLD front.  I know, I know, most of you who are further north are thinking, "you have no idea—you want to talk cold???"  yeah, I know- but when the warmest thing you have on board is a thin fleece, and a foul weather jacket, the chill in the persistent wind is hard to combat).

Anyway, hot tea in hand, fried eggs and fresh bread on my plate, the day stretched out ahead luxuriously empty of commitment.  Perhaps a walk along the beach at low tide, to search out some more emerald nerites (fabulous, tiny, emerald-green snail shells).  Or maybe a little baking, or perhaps simply sitting on the bridge, protected by the enclosure and reading my book.

As those thoughts were percolating in my brain, the radio cackled with the chatter of the "kiter dudes"—Wayne and Charlie, who are arranging a trip down to Man of War Cay, the perfect place for this northeast wind to kite board today.  "Paul, are you in?"

Understand, that Paul took some lessons last year, and over the summer invested in some equipment which he had yet to use, plus a new second kite, which he recently purchased. (you need different sizes for different wind conditions).  Still at the beginner stage, he needed practice, and some support folks to go out with—like now.

I decided to go along for the adventure, packing extra warm clothes in a dry bag, & a small cooler with lunch.
To get there, (a 4-mile dinghy ride,) we loaded up 2 dinghies with 6 kites, 3 boards, rigging paraphernalia, dry bags, lunches and 5 people bundled up in wet gear and foul-weather jackets.  We splashed our way down-wind, being pushed not only by the wind, but the fetch of 2-3 ft. waves rolling down the length of the harbor.  Phew!

"There" turned out to be a huge rolling stretch of white sand bay bottom, totally exposed now, at dead-low tide, the patterns in the sand creating ripple-like wave effects, and numerous small, gray starfish lying scattered under a thin coating of sand.  This giant sand-bar would eventually be covered by water, as the day wore on, and the tide seeped in.  Down wind, of this perch the water is all shallow, and great for boarding, as you can step (or fall) off your board, and be standing less than knee-deep in water.  Makes for an easier start, apparently.

The wind was unrelenting, which is great for the kites, but this was so cold, even the "tough-boys" were freezing.  Everyone got out for some good runs, though Paul is just learning to get on the board, & was trying out the brand new kite.

Fortunately for some of us, we begged a ride back (against the wind & waves) in a larger, go-fast dinghy from a new friend, while Wayne & Paul struck out on their own in the other 2 dinghies.

Everyone returned to their boats, safe, happy, tired and cold!  Hot showers, yay!  We rinsed off the gear & hung it around the boat to dry, then, finally, Paul & I settled in to a nice spaghetti & wahoo meatball sauce dinner with fresh green salad.  A glass of red wine, and a movie (for Paul), while I type up this e-mail.  I guarantee, when our heads hit the pillow, there will be about 30 seconds, and then Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010
The next day.

Yes, it was a sound sleep, and we woke up to… easing winds, calm seas, and sunny skies.  (Still chilly, but as the clouds dissipated, the sun was very warming)

Paul started the day today with a long walk along the Stocking Island beach with Wayne and the mini-dog, Callie.  I did yoga on the beach with the girls.

After preparing a fish salad, from the left over Dorado we caught several days ago, we packed that into the dinghy, and headed to Top of the World, which is Paul & Melanie's paradise piece of Elizabeth Island (the next one down from our anchorage).

They had arranged a beautiful luncheon with our mutual friends- Susa and Peter (from Montauk); and Suzanne & Steve.  Yup, that would be 3 "Sue's" and 2 "Paul's".  We sat out on their deck and devoured a nice chicken chili/stew and a loaf of delicious, crusty bread (Melanie's 48-hour bread, or some such thing) that accounted for 80% of the lunch time conversation.  Laughs and good times….

Later we took a walk on some of their trails, up to the gazebo at the high point (Top of the World), with a view of Georgetown and the entire harbor, and down to one of the pocket beaches, before winding our way back to the boathouse.

By the time we finally rousted ourselves to dinghy back to Independence, it was almost time to prepare dinner, which I did, after admiring a beautiful sunset from our bridge with  Paul and Charlie, whose wife Liz flew home for a week of work.  We then enjoyed a simple vegetable stir-fry, chocolate biscotti, more good conversation, and a late (9 pm!) good night to another amazing day.


Love to all of you,
Sue and Paul

Adventure at anchor

Pipe's Creek, Exuma

I sit and write this as it howls 25 to 30 knots outside.  Paul & I have had a good breakfast (cheese & pepper omelet, ham & toast), plenty of hot tea, & we are now warm & cozy after this morning's frightening wake-up alarm.

Here's the story:
At sunrise, Paul turned on the single-side band radio for the morning Bahama's net weather report.  As I  came up to the salon from below to turn on my iphone to record the report, Paul was anxiously peering forward over our bow, with the short-wave radio mike in one hand.

The large trawler who was anchored upwind of us, was dragging anchor and bearing down on us, thankfully with his engines on.  He was calling another boat on the radio who was not responding, as Paul repeatedly called to him.  Finally, he responded to Paul and immediately accepted Paul's offer for assistance.

Paul jumped in the dinghy, as I handed him the "Look bucket" & he headed up against the wind, current & chop to better assess the situation around the dragging trawler.  It seems he could not raise his dragging anchor (all chain) due to a windlass failure, so Paul helps him release his second anchor, it does not grab, and now both his anchors are dragging.  (Most of us are currently anchored with 2 anchors because of the wind direction change overnight).

Next thing I know, I hear our chain vibrating and rattling, & conclude that he has now snagged our chain, which is right now got all the load holding Independence in place.  By the way, on one side of this channel in which we are anchored, is a rocky shore, and on the other side a shallow, hard, bar.

I hail Paul with the dinghy over to alert him & confirm what he already suspected.  He jumps back on Independence, starts up the engines, and tries to tell the other captain to release all of his main anchor into the water.  At this point, his second anchor has grabbed (however tentatively) & his boat starts swinging on that anchor perilously close to our bow.  If that anchor gives & he moves in any direction, he will uproot our chain & anchor, & we both go!

Now Bruce & Debi have arrived in their dinghy to assist—Paul has shed his wet clothes for a wetsuit (it's chilly, & the water is warmer than the air), & with fins & snorkel, jumps in Debi's dinghy while Bruce & I stay on Independence with fenders & ready to drive the boat if we come loose.  Paul dives the entangled chains, in the very strong current, and manages to free them from each other, at the same time the guy's second anchor releases it's hold, & the boat swings within spitting distance of our bow, poised to ensnare our second anchor rode on the other side!

He guns it forward, and thank goodness, our chain is now clear and we are once again 2 separate units.  Now Bruce has jumped in the dinghy that Deb is driving to go to that boat and assist with pulling up his chain & anchors.  He is joined by Paul & they both haul up both anchors manually, &  finally help him reset both back where he started.  The poor couple are in virtual shock (especially his wife), as the boat is new to them, and with the equipment failure, they were at a loss with just the 2 of them.  He was very grateful & promised Paul to "pay it forward" & help the next guy who is in trouble.

And so… "the code of the sea"—we all look out for each other.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Holidays at Staniel Cay

Hope everyone has had a wonderful holiday, maybe with loved ones, maybe shoveling some snow…

Independence is at anchor just off the docks at Staniel Cay.  Our "cruising family" has remained together, and continue to be on the same basic schedule, at least until after the new year.  (Kaya made an earlier departure to make it to Georgetown for Junkanoo).

In the Bahamas, Boxing Day is the day after Christmas and a day the locals acknowledge—everything remains closed, it is a holiday.  The tradition of Boxing Day, comes from the days of British Loyalist who, on the day after Christmas, boxed up all the left-overs and gave them to the slaves, along with a day off.

On Christmas Eve, Paul & I went into town along with our friend, Sam, and joined an open-house gathering with ham, turkey, all the trimmings—hosted by a local family who invite all the islanders and cruisers every year.

The Scooter's have 4 family members visiting (staying on the island), and the DD's have 1 visitor on the boat.  In the "mi casa es su casa" tradition, we also share guests and join in many group activities and general hanging out.

On a day when the northeast wind was blowing with a big swell coming in on the windward side (eastern side of the Exuma chain), we all dinghied up to a place called Bubble Bath.  There is a natural pool formation on the western side of a cut out in the rocks, where the foamy breakers crash through when the seas are just right.  We try to hold our own & swim against the waves, immersed in the foamy bubbles.  Cries of "here comes a big one!" and "Is that all you've got???   Bring it!!"  echo around the inlet.  Our version of a water park…

We later snorkeled a drift dive and spotted some huge, beautiful spotted eagle rays.  Between all these activities, we talk about food and prepare for the next meal.

Christmas dinner we all went out (no one had to cook!)  I did spend the day fighting for the only working washing machine and drier at the marina, and ended up stringing up laundry all over Independence.  But now we have clean sheets, towels and clothes!

Nothing much more to report, but we are getting ready for the New Year festivities, which include an auction, a golf-driving contest (which I won for the Ladies division last year!—bought everyone drinks with the credit at the yacht club), a Bahamian C-class sloop regatta, and the cruiser's race.  Oh yes, and the annual Pirate Party.  Every year since Johnny Depp bought his island down here, we hope he will show up!

Well, with or without Johnny, we will all be extending you the warmest wishes for the end of 2009 and all the best for the year to come!

P& S

Independence

Staniel Cay, Exumas

R we having fun yet?

Woohoo!  Here we still are at Norman's Cay.  Why?  Because we like it!  Not because we are weathered in, by one cold front after another (as was the constant scenario last year)

The anchorage is comfortable, and roomy.  We are surrounded by many vessels, 4 of whom are good cruising pals.  Six of the 8 to 10 folks we are hanging with, are into either kite-boarding or wind-surfing, and so when the knot-reader indicates 13 or more knots of wind, out come the toys, and the water sports begin.  The remainder of us, most likely are hanging on the beach, playing scrabble, swimming, or  taking chase in a dinghy & rescuing a stray kiter who can't make it back to starting point.

The beers and snacks come out around 3, as we all, tired and happy, re-group on our beach chairs & blankets—dogs happily snug in the sand, after a day of romping and barking at the passing kite-boarders.
Another reason it is so pleasant for this activity, is that the winds, weather easterly or southerly merely blow the boards onto the beach or up into the shallow pond at the north end of the anchorage, not out to sea!

Yesterday (no wind, so the guys went spear-fishing), we wound up the day with an early pot-luck on the beach (which we now refer to as "our beach", and have built a nice table from the ruins of some shacks in the woods).  The meal was really more like this incredible cook-off, since everyone outdid themselves with delicious offerings.  This was the menu:  Carnitas (a Mexican pulled-pork taco with toppings), lasagna, beautiful wahoo/avocado sushi rolls, a creamy lobster casserole, conch salad, grouper fingers—fabulous!  The lobster, conch and grouper were all freshly harvested, the wahoo just a few days prior.

Then we sat around the small fire we made, sipping wine and playing catch-phrase, till the glasses were empty and our bellies full, we climbed into our dinghies and flashlight aimed our way back to our floating homes for a night of dreams and renewal.

Today, I managed a bike ride (Wayne & Sharon off-loaded their bikes yesterday), this being one of the
few cays to have a road (I use the word quite loosely).  The girls have also been starting each day on the beach with a yoga session, before paddling back to our boats on our kayaks for breakfast.

Paul has managed to hook us into a reasonable internet connection, using the Bahamas cell tower connections.  He has become the most important boat in this flotilla, as all our buddies vie for access & come visiting with their computers in hand.  The nearest cell tower is not too far off, so we are in luck right now.  It will change as we head south.

So, if all goes well, I will actually be able to send this off once again, and hope it reaches you all, so that you can give us a "hi, right back at ya"!

Wishing everyone good times and good health,

Sue and Paul
Independence
Bahamas

Hot December

Norman's Cay, Exumas

Our second anchorage, after leaving Nassau.  We arrived at our first stop- Alan's Cay on Tuesday, happy to be reunited with Different Drummer and Scooter, both cruising pals since our first year.

Falling in to familiar routines, we basically had the anchorage to ourselves, took off together in our dinghies for a morning of diving the reefs, and coming back with lobster and conch.  We shared a meal on Independence, and the following night a meal on DD.

I enjoyed some kayaking around the little cay, and dropped off my food garbage for the resident iguanas. (They particularly enjoyed the cabbage remains).

Deb had to fly home for business emergency, so DD headed south less than 10 miles to Compass.  We decided to follow as well, but cruised on the sound side, as the wind was mild and put out some fishing lines on the way down—fishing the wall.

Just as we were getting ready to come in the cut to the anchorage—zzzzzzzing! Fish on!
Landed a giant Wahoo to make all our friends we were meeting in the anchorage happy.  (No one as happy as Paul!)  In addition to gifts for their freezers,  dinner for 7 on Independence—fresh grilled Wahoo.

Now we are happily playing with Tina & Matt on Mattina (!) Bruce, the  bachelor for a week, Sharon & Wayne & some other cruisers enjoying this anchorage.  I say playing, because there is a perfect beach blanket bingo beach here—and when the wind is right, like this morning, some of the gang is kite-boarding or wind-surfing.  I am happy tooling around on my kayak & taking long walks.

Swimming with my hat & sunglasses to remind me to keep my face dry, as I am still waiting for the stitches to dissolve and all to completely heal before I risk immersion.

There is an airstrip on this island (used to be for the drug runner who owned the joint) and a restaurant that opens in the afternoon and serves $11 hot dogs and $12 burgers and fish fingers.  Well, it takes a lot to run a food joint in a god-forsaken place like this (generators breaking down continually, supplies being flown in, etc...)

So, island life..  thank you very much, I'll take it!  Be baking some bread soon—try out some new recipes.  So far no terrible fronts coming through, so the weather has been on it's best behavior!

Wish you all the best,
S & P
Independence

Thankful Crossing, First Fish, It Begins

Dear Friends and Beloved Family,

I hope you all had a very pleasant Thanksgiving, and have had some time to reflect on the gifts we have, the mere fact of our existence and the love that we receive. Paul & I were blessed to spend a nice evening with my Folks in Boynton Beach, followed by a visit and dinner the next day with the Wald's, our most gracious of friends in Stuart, who happily share what is theirs!

We finally departed Fort Lauderdale Sunday morning, after topping off our fuel tanks & securing/stashing all the FOOD and STUFF we were continually purchasing while there.
We have been traveling with some nice company-- Wayne & Sharon on "My Sharonna", a beautiful Celine trawler. We have been fortunate to get a nice 2-day weather window, necessary for getting across the banks and to Nassau where we will clear customs, etc., and hopefully find internet to send this off.

Our stay in Florida was besieged by numerous setbacks, including the headliner specialist from hell- who took till Nov. 16 to finish a job that was supposed to be done in June! Ironically, due to this delay, I had enough time to re-visit a dermatologist to remove a carcinoma on my nose-- yes, you can probably call me "Scarface" for a while! Aside from spending money, and getting medical attention, we enjoyed a very brisk social life in Ft. Lauderdale, as we have many friends who either live or pass through at this time of the year. Good company and good times.

So, all is cleared up, & our lures our out on 4 fishing lines, as we troll our way across the Tongue of the Ocean, heading to Nassau on this beautiful Monday morning. (We spent the night on the banks, anchored just outside the Tongue, which is a deeper than soundings body of water, shaped like a tongue, & at the northwest end, it narrows down to a shoaled opening onto the banks, suddenly going to around 15 to 20 ft. depths. Remarkable!

I will leave off, for now & go back up on the bridge & take a watch, so Paul can focus on his fishing lures!! more in Nassau...

4:30pm
We have cleared customs, immigration, washed the very salty boat & Paul has taxied to the Batelco (Bahamas telephone) office to try and get a special data phone. (I don't have high hopes, the communications here are dismal and change every year)

So, I am excited to be at this Starbucks (!) across the street from the marina, with a coffee and wifi!!

On the way here, we caught a small Dorado (mahi mahi) and My Sharonna caught two. There will be fish for dinner tonight, as 8 of us pot luck aboard My Sharonna. And so it begins.....


Best wishes, and Love to all of you,
from your salty travelers aboard Independence,
Sue and Paul

Rum Cay

So here we are back at our home away from home. Once again the trip from Cape Santa Maria (the northernmost tip of Long Island) to Sumner Pt (the marina) was windy and choppy with banging head seas. To make matters worse, Paul’s valiant fishing attempts were mostly thwarted by the constant battle with the ever-present sea weed which continually fouled the lures.

The good news, was that on our previous day’s stop at Thompson’s Bay, Long Island we were able to score a big bag of stone crab claws at $10/lb, which beats the going price in Miami of around $15. Last night, with Monty and Oscar, we feasted on as many as we could eat with a delicious dipping sauce made from the downloaded recipe from the famous Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant.

The other fun events in our brief half day stay at Long Island included a great dinner and chat with the locals at Max’s conch bar, and a swim at the world’s deepest blue hole. The blue hole is currently busy with world-class free divers from Italy, Switzerland, New Zealand and who knows where else, who are practicing and competing this week. There were women there who were diving to 200 ft—just for practice! They wear full wet suits and a type of uni-fin which holds both feet together in one mermaid-type fin. In preparation, they spend about 15 minutes floating on their back and deep breathing before plunging down the line which is suspended from a float. You cannot even see down to the halfway point, it is so dark. Paul & friends can usually free dive to about 20 ft maybe more on a good day, just for comparison.

Anyway, arrival at Rum Cay presents its own unique adventures. Those of you in Florida may have noticed on news and in the papers a story covering the arrival of a manatee at a remote Bahamian island (Rum Cay). The marina right now boasts the only manatee within 200 miles, with the questions raised: how the heck did she get here & where did she come from? The scientists have arrived this morning (for the second time), and have determined that she came from the Palm Beach area and must have gotten swept out by currents and arrived here on a day when the seas were 15 ft. She has been identified by markings (scars and a ripped tail fin) and is at least 35 yrs old. We feed her fresh water from the hose (manatees are mammals and require fresh water) and she sucks on it like a bottle.

They plan to confine her for a few days, fatten her up with cases of cabbage and lettuce they brought, and then transport her by boat back to Florida for observation before tagging and releasing her into the wild. Stay tuned for further manatee developments.

Sue and Paul
Independence