Thursday, January 14, 2010

Windy day of kites, Foodie day of walks

Let me begin by saying, that after a long spell without internet, I have access for a short time, so I am pasting a previously written post, as a way of update.

Also, our hearts go out to the poor, and long-suffering Haitians, who now are having to endure this most recent natural tragedy.  We had a brief time of alertness for a possible tsunami watch, which was quickly dismissed, but decided we would be safest in our boats, but not in a harbor if that really came to pass.  Do we begin to sense that this natural planet is having a hard time balancing in a more subtle way the trauma that has been persistently inflicted by human progress?  This is perhaps a topic too wide to broach here, so I will leave it there for now.

We continue to count our blessings for every day, every moment which allows us to enjoy the beauty around us, as well as the tragedy.

Before all these pressing thoughts, the following is how our days have progressed! :

Monday, January 11, 2010
Georgetown, Grand Exuma

There are days that begin, no plan, quiet and easy, with the standard procedure – turn on the single side-band radio for the morning weather report, start up the generator, and boil water for coffee or tea.

This morning started out thus, the wind was still steady & strong from the passage of last night's cold front.  (Which, incidentally, has also clearly reinforced the reason we call it a COLD front.  I know, I know, most of you who are further north are thinking, "you have no idea—you want to talk cold???"  yeah, I know- but when the warmest thing you have on board is a thin fleece, and a foul weather jacket, the chill in the persistent wind is hard to combat).

Anyway, hot tea in hand, fried eggs and fresh bread on my plate, the day stretched out ahead luxuriously empty of commitment.  Perhaps a walk along the beach at low tide, to search out some more emerald nerites (fabulous, tiny, emerald-green snail shells).  Or maybe a little baking, or perhaps simply sitting on the bridge, protected by the enclosure and reading my book.

As those thoughts were percolating in my brain, the radio cackled with the chatter of the "kiter dudes"—Wayne and Charlie, who are arranging a trip down to Man of War Cay, the perfect place for this northeast wind to kite board today.  "Paul, are you in?"

Understand, that Paul took some lessons last year, and over the summer invested in some equipment which he had yet to use, plus a new second kite, which he recently purchased. (you need different sizes for different wind conditions).  Still at the beginner stage, he needed practice, and some support folks to go out with—like now.

I decided to go along for the adventure, packing extra warm clothes in a dry bag, & a small cooler with lunch.
To get there, (a 4-mile dinghy ride,) we loaded up 2 dinghies with 6 kites, 3 boards, rigging paraphernalia, dry bags, lunches and 5 people bundled up in wet gear and foul-weather jackets.  We splashed our way down-wind, being pushed not only by the wind, but the fetch of 2-3 ft. waves rolling down the length of the harbor.  Phew!

"There" turned out to be a huge rolling stretch of white sand bay bottom, totally exposed now, at dead-low tide, the patterns in the sand creating ripple-like wave effects, and numerous small, gray starfish lying scattered under a thin coating of sand.  This giant sand-bar would eventually be covered by water, as the day wore on, and the tide seeped in.  Down wind, of this perch the water is all shallow, and great for boarding, as you can step (or fall) off your board, and be standing less than knee-deep in water.  Makes for an easier start, apparently.

The wind was unrelenting, which is great for the kites, but this was so cold, even the "tough-boys" were freezing.  Everyone got out for some good runs, though Paul is just learning to get on the board, & was trying out the brand new kite.

Fortunately for some of us, we begged a ride back (against the wind & waves) in a larger, go-fast dinghy from a new friend, while Wayne & Paul struck out on their own in the other 2 dinghies.

Everyone returned to their boats, safe, happy, tired and cold!  Hot showers, yay!  We rinsed off the gear & hung it around the boat to dry, then, finally, Paul & I settled in to a nice spaghetti & wahoo meatball sauce dinner with fresh green salad.  A glass of red wine, and a movie (for Paul), while I type up this e-mail.  I guarantee, when our heads hit the pillow, there will be about 30 seconds, and then Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010
The next day.

Yes, it was a sound sleep, and we woke up to… easing winds, calm seas, and sunny skies.  (Still chilly, but as the clouds dissipated, the sun was very warming)

Paul started the day today with a long walk along the Stocking Island beach with Wayne and the mini-dog, Callie.  I did yoga on the beach with the girls.

After preparing a fish salad, from the left over Dorado we caught several days ago, we packed that into the dinghy, and headed to Top of the World, which is Paul & Melanie's paradise piece of Elizabeth Island (the next one down from our anchorage).

They had arranged a beautiful luncheon with our mutual friends- Susa and Peter (from Montauk); and Suzanne & Steve.  Yup, that would be 3 "Sue's" and 2 "Paul's".  We sat out on their deck and devoured a nice chicken chili/stew and a loaf of delicious, crusty bread (Melanie's 48-hour bread, or some such thing) that accounted for 80% of the lunch time conversation.  Laughs and good times….

Later we took a walk on some of their trails, up to the gazebo at the high point (Top of the World), with a view of Georgetown and the entire harbor, and down to one of the pocket beaches, before winding our way back to the boathouse.

By the time we finally rousted ourselves to dinghy back to Independence, it was almost time to prepare dinner, which I did, after admiring a beautiful sunset from our bridge with  Paul and Charlie, whose wife Liz flew home for a week of work.  We then enjoyed a simple vegetable stir-fry, chocolate biscotti, more good conversation, and a late (9 pm!) good night to another amazing day.


Love to all of you,
Sue and Paul

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Adventure at anchor

Pipe's Creek, Exuma

I sit and write this as it howls 25 to 30 knots outside.  Paul & I have had a good breakfast (cheese & pepper omelet, ham & toast), plenty of hot tea, & we are now warm & cozy after this morning's frightening wake-up alarm.

Here's the story:
At sunrise, Paul turned on the single-side band radio for the morning Bahama's net weather report.  As I  came up to the salon from below to turn on my iphone to record the report, Paul was anxiously peering forward over our bow, with the short-wave radio mike in one hand.

The large trawler who was anchored upwind of us, was dragging anchor and bearing down on us, thankfully with his engines on.  He was calling another boat on the radio who was not responding, as Paul repeatedly called to him.  Finally, he responded to Paul and immediately accepted Paul's offer for assistance.

Paul jumped in the dinghy, as I handed him the "Look bucket" & he headed up against the wind, current & chop to better assess the situation around the dragging trawler.  It seems he could not raise his dragging anchor (all chain) due to a windlass failure, so Paul helps him release his second anchor, it does not grab, and now both his anchors are dragging.  (Most of us are currently anchored with 2 anchors because of the wind direction change overnight).

Next thing I know, I hear our chain vibrating and rattling, & conclude that he has now snagged our chain, which is right now got all the load holding Independence in place.  By the way, on one side of this channel in which we are anchored, is a rocky shore, and on the other side a shallow, hard, bar.

I hail Paul with the dinghy over to alert him & confirm what he already suspected.  He jumps back on Independence, starts up the engines, and tries to tell the other captain to release all of his main anchor into the water.  At this point, his second anchor has grabbed (however tentatively) & his boat starts swinging on that anchor perilously close to our bow.  If that anchor gives & he moves in any direction, he will uproot our chain & anchor, & we both go!

Now Bruce & Debi have arrived in their dinghy to assist—Paul has shed his wet clothes for a wetsuit (it's chilly, & the water is warmer than the air), & with fins & snorkel, jumps in Debi's dinghy while Bruce & I stay on Independence with fenders & ready to drive the boat if we come loose.  Paul dives the entangled chains, in the very strong current, and manages to free them from each other, at the same time the guy's second anchor releases it's hold, & the boat swings within spitting distance of our bow, poised to ensnare our second anchor rode on the other side!

He guns it forward, and thank goodness, our chain is now clear and we are once again 2 separate units.  Now Bruce has jumped in the dinghy that Deb is driving to go to that boat and assist with pulling up his chain & anchors.  He is joined by Paul & they both haul up both anchors manually, &  finally help him reset both back where he started.  The poor couple are in virtual shock (especially his wife), as the boat is new to them, and with the equipment failure, they were at a loss with just the 2 of them.  He was very grateful & promised Paul to "pay it forward" & help the next guy who is in trouble.

And so… "the code of the sea"—we all look out for each other.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

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