Holidays at Staniel Cay

Hope everyone has had a wonderful holiday, maybe with loved ones, maybe shoveling some snow…

Independence is at anchor just off the docks at Staniel Cay.  Our "cruising family" has remained together, and continue to be on the same basic schedule, at least until after the new year.  (Kaya made an earlier departure to make it to Georgetown for Junkanoo).

In the Bahamas, Boxing Day is the day after Christmas and a day the locals acknowledge—everything remains closed, it is a holiday.  The tradition of Boxing Day, comes from the days of British Loyalist who, on the day after Christmas, boxed up all the left-overs and gave them to the slaves, along with a day off.

On Christmas Eve, Paul & I went into town along with our friend, Sam, and joined an open-house gathering with ham, turkey, all the trimmings—hosted by a local family who invite all the islanders and cruisers every year.

The Scooter's have 4 family members visiting (staying on the island), and the DD's have 1 visitor on the boat.  In the "mi casa es su casa" tradition, we also share guests and join in many group activities and general hanging out.

On a day when the northeast wind was blowing with a big swell coming in on the windward side (eastern side of the Exuma chain), we all dinghied up to a place called Bubble Bath.  There is a natural pool formation on the western side of a cut out in the rocks, where the foamy breakers crash through when the seas are just right.  We try to hold our own & swim against the waves, immersed in the foamy bubbles.  Cries of "here comes a big one!" and "Is that all you've got???   Bring it!!"  echo around the inlet.  Our version of a water park…

We later snorkeled a drift dive and spotted some huge, beautiful spotted eagle rays.  Between all these activities, we talk about food and prepare for the next meal.

Christmas dinner we all went out (no one had to cook!)  I did spend the day fighting for the only working washing machine and drier at the marina, and ended up stringing up laundry all over Independence.  But now we have clean sheets, towels and clothes!

Nothing much more to report, but we are getting ready for the New Year festivities, which include an auction, a golf-driving contest (which I won for the Ladies division last year!—bought everyone drinks with the credit at the yacht club), a Bahamian C-class sloop regatta, and the cruiser's race.  Oh yes, and the annual Pirate Party.  Every year since Johnny Depp bought his island down here, we hope he will show up!

Well, with or without Johnny, we will all be extending you the warmest wishes for the end of 2009 and all the best for the year to come!

P& S

Independence

Staniel Cay, Exumas

R we having fun yet?

Woohoo!  Here we still are at Norman's Cay.  Why?  Because we like it!  Not because we are weathered in, by one cold front after another (as was the constant scenario last year)

The anchorage is comfortable, and roomy.  We are surrounded by many vessels, 4 of whom are good cruising pals.  Six of the 8 to 10 folks we are hanging with, are into either kite-boarding or wind-surfing, and so when the knot-reader indicates 13 or more knots of wind, out come the toys, and the water sports begin.  The remainder of us, most likely are hanging on the beach, playing scrabble, swimming, or  taking chase in a dinghy & rescuing a stray kiter who can't make it back to starting point.

The beers and snacks come out around 3, as we all, tired and happy, re-group on our beach chairs & blankets—dogs happily snug in the sand, after a day of romping and barking at the passing kite-boarders.
Another reason it is so pleasant for this activity, is that the winds, weather easterly or southerly merely blow the boards onto the beach or up into the shallow pond at the north end of the anchorage, not out to sea!

Yesterday (no wind, so the guys went spear-fishing), we wound up the day with an early pot-luck on the beach (which we now refer to as "our beach", and have built a nice table from the ruins of some shacks in the woods).  The meal was really more like this incredible cook-off, since everyone outdid themselves with delicious offerings.  This was the menu:  Carnitas (a Mexican pulled-pork taco with toppings), lasagna, beautiful wahoo/avocado sushi rolls, a creamy lobster casserole, conch salad, grouper fingers—fabulous!  The lobster, conch and grouper were all freshly harvested, the wahoo just a few days prior.

Then we sat around the small fire we made, sipping wine and playing catch-phrase, till the glasses were empty and our bellies full, we climbed into our dinghies and flashlight aimed our way back to our floating homes for a night of dreams and renewal.

Today, I managed a bike ride (Wayne & Sharon off-loaded their bikes yesterday), this being one of the
few cays to have a road (I use the word quite loosely).  The girls have also been starting each day on the beach with a yoga session, before paddling back to our boats on our kayaks for breakfast.

Paul has managed to hook us into a reasonable internet connection, using the Bahamas cell tower connections.  He has become the most important boat in this flotilla, as all our buddies vie for access & come visiting with their computers in hand.  The nearest cell tower is not too far off, so we are in luck right now.  It will change as we head south.

So, if all goes well, I will actually be able to send this off once again, and hope it reaches you all, so that you can give us a "hi, right back at ya"!

Wishing everyone good times and good health,

Sue and Paul
Independence
Bahamas

Hot December

Norman's Cay, Exumas

Our second anchorage, after leaving Nassau.  We arrived at our first stop- Alan's Cay on Tuesday, happy to be reunited with Different Drummer and Scooter, both cruising pals since our first year.

Falling in to familiar routines, we basically had the anchorage to ourselves, took off together in our dinghies for a morning of diving the reefs, and coming back with lobster and conch.  We shared a meal on Independence, and the following night a meal on DD.

I enjoyed some kayaking around the little cay, and dropped off my food garbage for the resident iguanas. (They particularly enjoyed the cabbage remains).

Deb had to fly home for business emergency, so DD headed south less than 10 miles to Compass.  We decided to follow as well, but cruised on the sound side, as the wind was mild and put out some fishing lines on the way down—fishing the wall.

Just as we were getting ready to come in the cut to the anchorage—zzzzzzzing! Fish on!
Landed a giant Wahoo to make all our friends we were meeting in the anchorage happy.  (No one as happy as Paul!)  In addition to gifts for their freezers,  dinner for 7 on Independence—fresh grilled Wahoo.

Now we are happily playing with Tina & Matt on Mattina (!) Bruce, the  bachelor for a week, Sharon & Wayne & some other cruisers enjoying this anchorage.  I say playing, because there is a perfect beach blanket bingo beach here—and when the wind is right, like this morning, some of the gang is kite-boarding or wind-surfing.  I am happy tooling around on my kayak & taking long walks.

Swimming with my hat & sunglasses to remind me to keep my face dry, as I am still waiting for the stitches to dissolve and all to completely heal before I risk immersion.

There is an airstrip on this island (used to be for the drug runner who owned the joint) and a restaurant that opens in the afternoon and serves $11 hot dogs and $12 burgers and fish fingers.  Well, it takes a lot to run a food joint in a god-forsaken place like this (generators breaking down continually, supplies being flown in, etc...)

So, island life..  thank you very much, I'll take it!  Be baking some bread soon—try out some new recipes.  So far no terrible fronts coming through, so the weather has been on it's best behavior!

Wish you all the best,
S & P
Independence

Thankful Crossing, First Fish, It Begins

Dear Friends and Beloved Family,

I hope you all had a very pleasant Thanksgiving, and have had some time to reflect on the gifts we have, the mere fact of our existence and the love that we receive. Paul & I were blessed to spend a nice evening with my Folks in Boynton Beach, followed by a visit and dinner the next day with the Wald's, our most gracious of friends in Stuart, who happily share what is theirs!

We finally departed Fort Lauderdale Sunday morning, after topping off our fuel tanks & securing/stashing all the FOOD and STUFF we were continually purchasing while there.
We have been traveling with some nice company-- Wayne & Sharon on "My Sharonna", a beautiful Celine trawler. We have been fortunate to get a nice 2-day weather window, necessary for getting across the banks and to Nassau where we will clear customs, etc., and hopefully find internet to send this off.

Our stay in Florida was besieged by numerous setbacks, including the headliner specialist from hell- who took till Nov. 16 to finish a job that was supposed to be done in June! Ironically, due to this delay, I had enough time to re-visit a dermatologist to remove a carcinoma on my nose-- yes, you can probably call me "Scarface" for a while! Aside from spending money, and getting medical attention, we enjoyed a very brisk social life in Ft. Lauderdale, as we have many friends who either live or pass through at this time of the year. Good company and good times.

So, all is cleared up, & our lures our out on 4 fishing lines, as we troll our way across the Tongue of the Ocean, heading to Nassau on this beautiful Monday morning. (We spent the night on the banks, anchored just outside the Tongue, which is a deeper than soundings body of water, shaped like a tongue, & at the northwest end, it narrows down to a shoaled opening onto the banks, suddenly going to around 15 to 20 ft. depths. Remarkable!

I will leave off, for now & go back up on the bridge & take a watch, so Paul can focus on his fishing lures!! more in Nassau...

4:30pm
We have cleared customs, immigration, washed the very salty boat & Paul has taxied to the Batelco (Bahamas telephone) office to try and get a special data phone. (I don't have high hopes, the communications here are dismal and change every year)

So, I am excited to be at this Starbucks (!) across the street from the marina, with a coffee and wifi!!

On the way here, we caught a small Dorado (mahi mahi) and My Sharonna caught two. There will be fish for dinner tonight, as 8 of us pot luck aboard My Sharonna. And so it begins.....


Best wishes, and Love to all of you,
from your salty travelers aboard Independence,
Sue and Paul

Rum Cay

So here we are back at our home away from home. Once again the trip from Cape Santa Maria (the northernmost tip of Long Island) to Sumner Pt (the marina) was windy and choppy with banging head seas. To make matters worse, Paul’s valiant fishing attempts were mostly thwarted by the constant battle with the ever-present sea weed which continually fouled the lures.

The good news, was that on our previous day’s stop at Thompson’s Bay, Long Island we were able to score a big bag of stone crab claws at $10/lb, which beats the going price in Miami of around $15. Last night, with Monty and Oscar, we feasted on as many as we could eat with a delicious dipping sauce made from the downloaded recipe from the famous Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant.

The other fun events in our brief half day stay at Long Island included a great dinner and chat with the locals at Max’s conch bar, and a swim at the world’s deepest blue hole. The blue hole is currently busy with world-class free divers from Italy, Switzerland, New Zealand and who knows where else, who are practicing and competing this week. There were women there who were diving to 200 ft—just for practice! They wear full wet suits and a type of uni-fin which holds both feet together in one mermaid-type fin. In preparation, they spend about 15 minutes floating on their back and deep breathing before plunging down the line which is suspended from a float. You cannot even see down to the halfway point, it is so dark. Paul & friends can usually free dive to about 20 ft maybe more on a good day, just for comparison.

Anyway, arrival at Rum Cay presents its own unique adventures. Those of you in Florida may have noticed on news and in the papers a story covering the arrival of a manatee at a remote Bahamian island (Rum Cay). The marina right now boasts the only manatee within 200 miles, with the questions raised: how the heck did she get here & where did she come from? The scientists have arrived this morning (for the second time), and have determined that she came from the Palm Beach area and must have gotten swept out by currents and arrived here on a day when the seas were 15 ft. She has been identified by markings (scars and a ripped tail fin) and is at least 35 yrs old. We feed her fresh water from the hose (manatees are mammals and require fresh water) and she sucks on it like a bottle.

They plan to confine her for a few days, fatten her up with cases of cabbage and lettuce they brought, and then transport her by boat back to Florida for observation before tagging and releasing her into the wild. Stay tuned for further manatee developments.

Sue and Paul
Independence

Guests arrive with the wind

The saying “What a difference a day makes” has really proved itself true lately. I’m sure those of you up north are witnessing the occasional spring-like, sunny day that can change your whole attitude about the grey, cold winter. Last week we experienced about 5 magnificent days of mild winds, blue skies & calm seas. We were fortunate to be anchored in an unpopulated area, with the company of just 2 other boats (our friends). Each day we spent on and in the water, pulling the dinghy behind us on drift dives, swimming around beautiful coral gardens, and gathering pails full of conch. We feasted on our take from the sea every night, & watched the stars in the calm of the night.

The last day of calm weather allowed us to pick up our present guests, Peter & Dorothy, who had flown the red-eye from LA to Miami, arriving in Georgetown by afternoon.

Then the next front arrived, and we have had an average of 25 knot winds (higher gusts) buffeting Independence, causing white caps in the harbor, and resulting in bouncy and wet dinghy rides for even the shortest distance. A day or 2 of this is often tolerated, but this relentless wind is causing even the most hardy sailor to become irritable & hopeful for a break. P & D have been champions. Cheerfully adapting to the forced close-quarter existence on Independence, and taking advantage of the slimmest opportunities to get in the water, they have slept in a bouncy v-berth, woken up to static radio net announcements, and been dragged on to wet dinghy rides across the rough harbor, with never a word of complaint. Thank you guys, and we wish we could have controlled the weather to offer a more balanced experience.

So, from windy Georgetown, we wish you all a very enjoyable and pleasant spring, and remember- What a difference a day makes!

With a smile,
Sue and Paul
Independence

Back on the hook

Another cool (for the Bahamas) day, and the wind seems to be picking up again after a respite of a few days that was like an oasis in a blustery, cold winter. Independence is anchored just outside Compass Cay in a small harbor that we have had all to ourselves for the last 3 days.

It's been a nice break from the busy drama of Rum Cay, so we have had to change mode from living on the dock, to being back on the hook. (Running the generator twice a day, separating the food garbage for fish food, keeping lights at a minimum, etc.)

Jubilee is at the marina with Alan and Helen on board, so we have been spending time at Compass, hiking the trails and swimming the beaches. Tonight will be our farewell "happy hour" since the Weinsteins fly out tomorrow, and Jubilee will move on.
After that, we will make our way south again, till we get to Georgetown (the cruiser's hub) to pick up Paul's cousin Peter & wife Dorothy who will join us onboard for a week. We have also just found out another friend (Benny Jr) will join us after that. Things will be getting pretty busy on Indy, and it will be good to get in Georgetown to re-provision in the only decent market south of Nassau.

Of course, it's not like we have been hungry! Paul's lobsters caught in the last 2 days, and the conch which is cleaned and waiting in the fridge, have more than supplemented the Dorado (mahi-mahi) caught on the way up from Rum Cay. We give blessings for the abundance on our plates from the sea.

So, hoping you all have many blessings as well, love to all-- spring is on the way!

Sue & Paul
Independence

No-see-ums, green flashes, shark shows, naturalist excursions, beach-combing

Rum Cay, Bahamas

Our entry into Sumner Point Marina felt in many ways like coming home. Independence has spent a month or more at a time in this protected hole. It is the only time we tie up at a marina—there are several reasons for this. Primarily, because the anchorage is basically untenable for any stretch of time, especially in a trawler. There is a swell that, even on the calmest days will rock your boat till you are ready to swim to shore and sleep on the beach.

This, of course, is not an option because if the mosquitoes are not covering every inch of exposed skin, then the “no-see-ums” are leaving their incredible stinging bite on those same spots. These microscopic, flying pests especially appear before sunset (also early morning) and launch a full-scale attack on the crew of the fishing boats, cleaning the day’s catch at the docks.

The protocol that has evolved for us, is put on long sleeves & long pants, close up the boat & turn on the air-conditioning (another reason fro being at the dock), & venture outside with a beer or two for the fish-cleaners (which might result in a zip-lock bag filled with fresh fillet for dinner).

There are two shows going on about this time. One is the shark-feeding fest. These sharks have been coming in for years, trained by the prospect and smell of free food, as the fish remains get tossed off the dock. Some are a good 10ft long, and there are Lemon sharks and Bull sharks mixed in with the nurse sharks. Often, someone will tie a line through the fish carcass and bait the sharks, pulling them clear out of the water as they lunge and grab the bait. Falling off the dock is just not an option! (nor is swimming in the marina at any time of day).

The second show is nature’s heavenly display as the huge, fiery sun, sometimes the color of a blood orange, sinks slowly, at first, then quickly melts into the blue waters of the horizon. All eyes are trained on those last few seconds of descent, eager to catch a glimpse of the Green Flash, which is a sight heralded by those who see it, and mocked by those who claim there is no such thing. I have often seen a burst of green, almost like a green button where the sun’s edge just was, but I have heard that there are truly spectacular flashes across the entire horizon. I still watch for that one!
Yesterday, on my daily 8am bike ride with a small group of islanders, we were surprised by one of the bulls who inhabit the island. The surprise was mutual, I’m sure, as we hooted and hollered and followed behind him as he galloped (really!) down the road and finally off through the brush again. He was big and white with a brown head, and a member of a herd of maybe over 100 wild cows (usually scrawny) whose evidence we see along the only paved road and on many of the beaches that ring the island.It’s about a 6.5 mile ride to the airport and back, but when the wind is blowing 20 knots, like this morning, it feels like twice that. The up side is that encountering a truck and a golf cart would be a heavy traffic day.

After packing a picnic lunch, we joined Oscar & Sue on their amazing little ranger vehicle that allows us access into the depths of the island. Bull-dozed “roads” criss-cross much of the island these days—many are already overgrown, all look like a rubble of rocks and boulders sided by overhanging branches & thorny stuff, as well as healthy poisonwood trees cropping up every so often. The high chassis & individual wheel suspension allow us to plow right over small trees & shrubs and ascend perilous rises, as well as get through soft sand. Two of us stand behind the seat in the bed, overlooking the treetops for some great views.

In addition to the obvious sea-grape, I have learned to identify the lignum vitae tree, the gum alame (Sp? Also called gumbo limbo), wild tamarind, 7-year apple, mahogany, and of course- the poison wood. Sue is a great guide and naturalist. At the northeast corner of the island, we get a good look at Lake George- a huge area of water, presumably fed by a blue hole, which exists near the center. That part of the island has hidden cenotes (underwater caves) and driving over the limestone ridges next to open holes filled with water can be a bit disconcerting.

We finally arrive at the N.E. beach. The wind is howling, & we climb down the bluff to the shore, where it’s a bit less exposed. This is a long, long stretch of beach-comber’s paradise. Up on the wrack line, an accumulation of plastic, glass bottles, and very random bits of machinery, lumber and always lots of shoes, are scattered among the piles of seaweed. Here is where we search for sea beans, old bottles, and glass sea bouys. Sometimes a useful bucket, strainer, or weird item is a keeper. Closer down by the surf where the soft sand meets flat rocky ledges, sparkling sea glass waits to be picked through and pocketed. Some of the limestone is worn away by the water creating little pocket pools that fill up with treasures, shells and coral bits thrown up by the receding tide. Michelle and Brigid, you both know how many hours we can happily pick through these offerings!

So, finally, full from our picnic feast, satisfied with our gleaning from the shore, and even tucking an ocean trigger that Oscar hooked with some bait he pulled from snails into the cooler, we head on back to town and home.


It’s been a stellar day.

Sue and Paul
Independence,
Rum Cay

They do laundry, too.

Happy New Year from Independence!

The end of the "festivities" left us with a neglected boat (clean-wise), and a mountain of laundry. No doubt everyone is familiar with the social whirl, company cycle that replaces the normal daily schedule of your lives, and then the catch-up when it is all over. [Editor's note: Yes, we are familiar with this cycle,...against a backdrop of bitter cold weather, far from the azure waters of the Caribbean.]

After fond farewells to visitors and friends, our house-keeping began with a trip to Sampson Cay Marina for fuel (and a quick birthday present purchase of the "market"). From there, we jumped in the dinghy to return some borrowed items, and deliver a late X-mas gift to a friend anchored at Big Sampson. Then we headed south to Black Point, which, for those in the know, is the location of the best (cleanest, modern) laundromat. Underway, I baked a crust & cheesecake for Deb's Bay.

Once we were safely anchored in the anchorage, there was a quick organization of laundry: sheets, towels, darks & lights. Then package it in dry bags & big black plastic bags and load it onto the dinghy. The "laundermat" has a dock conveniently located out the back & down the hill. So we tie up there and lug our stinking treasures up, so they can be rejuvenated with $27 worth of washer/dryer tokens. Once the washers are churning, we find ourselves inching up to the corner TV screen which is broadcasting warfare in the Gaza on CNN -- this, being the first bit of network news we've heard in quite a while. There is also a couple of small shelves in the corner with the usual assortment of moldy, pocket-worn paperbacks and few 3-year old magazines and some hardcovers, for swap-out.

A walk through the main street of Black Point reveals a clean town (big, plastic garbage barrels line the road every 30 meters), and warm and friendly locals, and several prominent churches. (We've found that in many communities, rival congregations make up most of the population.)

Later, that evening, after transporting the laundry in reverse, 6 of us got together for a nice birthday dinner for Deb, and probably all fell fast asleep by 9pm- a full hour before "cruiser's midnight". Time to say goodbye, now and hope that my current internet connection holds out to send this.

Best wishes and all our love,
Sue and Paul, aboard Independence.