We hope everyone had a delicious, warm, and happy Christmas with friends and loved ones. Independence was blessed with the arrival of Lisa and Lance. Our cruising buddies joined us in making them most welcome and showing them a full few days of activities. We are sad to say goodbye to them today, but they will continue their brief vacation on Harbor Island, a short flight north of here, before returning to the snow-covered streets of Boston.
Although we did not have snow, we did have a week of strong “Christmas winds” and several days of rain and nasty squalls. These boat-bound days can either drive you a little stir-crazy, or force you into some creative or repair work. Of course, it is always an opportunity to do some needed cleaning and organizing in our small living space.
Independence was decorated with Christmas baubles on the inside, and rope LED lights on our mast and boom. The anchorage looks quite festive with many boats strung up with lights. On Christmas morning a flotilla of dinghies with passengers dressed festively in red, motored from boat to boat singing Christmas carols.
Our Christmas day was spent on a beautiful drift dive (8 of us) where we snagged some lobsters, swam with about 8 huge, and graceful spotted eagle rays, and ended up in a field of conch that we collected for later cleaning (and eating). Later, we all prepared the feast for our progressive dinner. Conch and lobster salads for appetizer, then mahi-mahi parmesan-i (our invention), followed by chocolate cake and coconut cream pie! Somehow we manage to concoct these feasts in our limited galleys.
The next few days were a whirlwind of activity, often starting with vigorous yoga on the beach followed by a refreshing swim (to get the sand of our sweaty bodies).
Paul and I are so grateful to our friends for going all out and showing our guests all the best parts of the Bahamas that we love. (If you don’t love being on and in the water, and camping in tight spaces, it ain’t for you!)
The next few days, after we put L & L on the plane, will continue to be filled with activities. Staniel Cay has a New Year regatta which encompasses things such as a Pirate Party (tonight), a fund-raising auction, a long-shot contest- where you drive golf balls off the dock into the water and chaser boats judge who has the longest drive, more happy hours, and the mixed-doubles race- which is selected cruisers (random from a sign-up) join the Bahamians on their traditional C-class sloops for a race around the harbor. Finally there is the cruising regatta, in which anyone with a sailboat can join in another race around the harbor. This is the most active time on this island, and there are mega-yachts who come every year at this time, and sponsor and support most of these activities which all benefit the local community.
After all this, the presently nice weather is supposed to pick up again with some stronger winds, so we will have to see where and when we go next. Anchorages are determined by direction and velocity of wind, and weather there is a swell or surge present which makes it very rocky and unpleasant on the boat.
I hope to post this email asap, though I have not had any success at raising internet, so I may be taking my computer to shore to see what service I can buy there. So, till then, wishing everyone the best for the new year. Stay healthy, happy and safe, and let us know what you are all up to these days.
With Love from Independence,
Sue & Paul
Monday, December 29, 2008
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
rescues and other good deeds...small world phenomena continues
Norman’s Cay
There’s been a little rustle in the recently established pattern of activity (wake up, radio & weather, breakfast, cleanup, get in the water w/all your gear on, return with catch of the day, clean catch, rinse gear & self, then on to dinner arrangements).
Yesterday, just after the 6 of us climbed into Scooter’s dinghy, “Big Red”, and were headed out the very narrow, shoaled-in cut, a new arrival made it’s way in and promptly went aground. This, after the Canadian=hailing sailboat assured us that yes, they had been in there before, thus they were familiar with the channel. So, we turned back to see if we could assist, and after a brief discussion, we convinced them that if they threw an anchor where they were stuck and waited for incoming tide, bad things would happen, most significantly the current would push them right up on the rocks.
So we spun them around with a dinghy on their stern & one on the bow, both pushing clockwise, so they could get back out the cut to anchor outside and wait for the tide to get in. THEN, we carried on with our dive plan.
Later, at high tide, it was our own turn to leave the Ship’s Channel harbor that we have been calling home the last 4-5 days. Bruce decided to dive the cut and inspect at close range for exit strategy, and found it so shoal, that he decided to mark with buoys a different route out of the harbor. Scooter led the way, then, with inches to spare, Different Drummer made it out, with Independence right behind.
Ah, good bye to a lovely little anchorage (so what, we each had to have 3 anchors out to keep ourselves in the deep water through both tides), where we had internet (!), friends caretaking the island, excellent snorkeling and diving all around, protection from wind, a place to burn trash, and relative peace from the outside world.
Next we found ourselves anchored at Highborne Cay, just outside an expensive, but nice marina with a well-stocked general store, fuel, a few mega-yachts, and some very nice people running the place.
Despite all those perks, the anchorage was rolly from swell, making it frustratingly uncomfortable for the 2 trawlers. The real tragedy was for our neighbors at this anchorage, in a less than 25’ sailboat, who lost their dinghy overnight. A young couple out of Maryland, just engaged, heading south to the Virgins to try and pick up some work once they get there. In other words, broke, and now without a dinghy & water.
We filled their jerry jug with water and gathered together a bag of provisions from us 3 boats, and Pete (the hero) donated his spare inflatable rowing dinghy to be returned to him in Georgetown via Paul & Melanie. (The young woman came from Chestertown where we know people in common-- previous cruising buddies of ours)
Needless to say, they were extremely grateful, and the intrepid trio, Indy, DD and Scooter, headed out of that #$@%% rolling anchorage to a better locale.
We have reached Norman’s Cay, the island once controlled by the notorious drug lord, Carlos (Joe) Lehder, and more recently a small resort & restaurant for the small planes that land at their airfield & the occasional cruisers. The island is now private and partly owned by a couple from Australia that we met in Southold last summer.
The small world phenomena continues.
There’s been a little rustle in the recently established pattern of activity (wake up, radio & weather, breakfast, cleanup, get in the water w/all your gear on, return with catch of the day, clean catch, rinse gear & self, then on to dinner arrangements).
Yesterday, just after the 6 of us climbed into Scooter’s dinghy, “Big Red”, and were headed out the very narrow, shoaled-in cut, a new arrival made it’s way in and promptly went aground. This, after the Canadian=hailing sailboat assured us that yes, they had been in there before, thus they were familiar with the channel. So, we turned back to see if we could assist, and after a brief discussion, we convinced them that if they threw an anchor where they were stuck and waited for incoming tide, bad things would happen, most significantly the current would push them right up on the rocks.
So we spun them around with a dinghy on their stern & one on the bow, both pushing clockwise, so they could get back out the cut to anchor outside and wait for the tide to get in. THEN, we carried on with our dive plan.
Later, at high tide, it was our own turn to leave the Ship’s Channel harbor that we have been calling home the last 4-5 days. Bruce decided to dive the cut and inspect at close range for exit strategy, and found it so shoal, that he decided to mark with buoys a different route out of the harbor. Scooter led the way, then, with inches to spare, Different Drummer made it out, with Independence right behind.
Ah, good bye to a lovely little anchorage (so what, we each had to have 3 anchors out to keep ourselves in the deep water through both tides), where we had internet (!), friends caretaking the island, excellent snorkeling and diving all around, protection from wind, a place to burn trash, and relative peace from the outside world.
Next we found ourselves anchored at Highborne Cay, just outside an expensive, but nice marina with a well-stocked general store, fuel, a few mega-yachts, and some very nice people running the place.
Despite all those perks, the anchorage was rolly from swell, making it frustratingly uncomfortable for the 2 trawlers. The real tragedy was for our neighbors at this anchorage, in a less than 25’ sailboat, who lost their dinghy overnight. A young couple out of Maryland, just engaged, heading south to the Virgins to try and pick up some work once they get there. In other words, broke, and now without a dinghy & water.
We filled their jerry jug with water and gathered together a bag of provisions from us 3 boats, and Pete (the hero) donated his spare inflatable rowing dinghy to be returned to him in Georgetown via Paul & Melanie. (The young woman came from Chestertown where we know people in common-- previous cruising buddies of ours)
Needless to say, they were extremely grateful, and the intrepid trio, Indy, DD and Scooter, headed out of that #$@%% rolling anchorage to a better locale.
We have reached Norman’s Cay, the island once controlled by the notorious drug lord, Carlos (Joe) Lehder, and more recently a small resort & restaurant for the small planes that land at their airfield & the occasional cruisers. The island is now private and partly owned by a couple from Australia that we met in Southold last summer.
The small world phenomena continues.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
iguana sumo wrestlers always startle the tourists...after dinner bowling on Independence
Ship’s Channel, Bahamas
It’s been a week. After a brief stop in Nassau, Independence and our pals on Different Drummer (a beautiful, blue-hulled Bristol), continued across the Banks to Alan’s Cay.
This little cluster of islands/rocks, is known for it’s abundant population of iguanas. They are protected by Bahamian law and so bountiful—they own the island. These pre-historic looking creatures do not have keen eyesight, but they can detect a morsel of food scraps in a flash. Once, sometimes twice a day, long triple engine cigarette-type boats, laden with tourists from Nassau speed over to Alan’s Cay, pull up to the short, sandy beach, disembarking the passengers for a feed-fest with the iguanas. They come out from the underbrush, the rocks, out of the branches of slow-lying shrubs, and waddle their way to the beach with forelegs bent out at right angles, walking like sumo wrestlers. Their long tails drag loopy paths in the soft sand, and as they approach some tidbits of lettuce or banana peel, there is a rush as one or two snap and fight for the piece of treasure. The quick aggression always startles the tourists, and they jump back with a squeal.
While the wind blew 3 fronts through our little anchorage, we saw several cruising boats come and go for a night or two, as this is mostly a stopping point for cruisers heading towards Georgetown.
Yesterday, both DD and Indy left that anchorage to come here, a mile or so north to join our friends on Scooter. This is a fun place, as we know the caretakers and friends of the owner of the little island. He runs a business from Nassau on those afore-mentioned tourist boats. After they stop to feed the iguanas for 15 minutes or so, they run up here to Ship’s Channel Cay, where there are some out-buildings, a bar, a dock, pretty little beach. They can snorkel, sunbathe, hike a trail, and have lunch. Then they are all ferried back on the boat (30 – 40 people) and run back to Nassau. A day in the islands!
Once the touristas are gone, we go ashore to hang and converse with the crew left behind.
------
Today, we convened on Scooter in the morning to share Deb’s homemade muffins & plan out the day. At slack tide, we clambered into two of the 3 dinghies with wet-suits on, fins, masks, snorkels, spears and buckets all loaded in, and headed out of the anchorage to explore and hunt the beautiful reefs and coral heads around the islands. It was a good day, we returned with 3 Margates, a Hogfish and about 6 lobster. We also had a beautiful drift dive, and saw several turtles and beautiful fish and soft coral. (I know, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it).
We split the food preparation for tonight’s feast, which we will shortly bring to shore and share with the 6 people who are left on the island after working the tourist trade for the day. Last night, dinner was on Independence with the 6 of us, & we grilled the wahoo we had caught the other day. After dinner we bowled on the Wii that Scooter brought over!
Who knew there was so much to keep one occupied living on a small little space, floating in the middle of no civilization…
(Oh yes, and most importantly, there is wi-fi!!!)
Love to everyone,
S & P
It’s been a week. After a brief stop in Nassau, Independence and our pals on Different Drummer (a beautiful, blue-hulled Bristol), continued across the Banks to Alan’s Cay.
This little cluster of islands/rocks, is known for it’s abundant population of iguanas. They are protected by Bahamian law and so bountiful—they own the island. These pre-historic looking creatures do not have keen eyesight, but they can detect a morsel of food scraps in a flash. Once, sometimes twice a day, long triple engine cigarette-type boats, laden with tourists from Nassau speed over to Alan’s Cay, pull up to the short, sandy beach, disembarking the passengers for a feed-fest with the iguanas. They come out from the underbrush, the rocks, out of the branches of slow-lying shrubs, and waddle their way to the beach with forelegs bent out at right angles, walking like sumo wrestlers. Their long tails drag loopy paths in the soft sand, and as they approach some tidbits of lettuce or banana peel, there is a rush as one or two snap and fight for the piece of treasure. The quick aggression always startles the tourists, and they jump back with a squeal.
While the wind blew 3 fronts through our little anchorage, we saw several cruising boats come and go for a night or two, as this is mostly a stopping point for cruisers heading towards Georgetown.
Yesterday, both DD and Indy left that anchorage to come here, a mile or so north to join our friends on Scooter. This is a fun place, as we know the caretakers and friends of the owner of the little island. He runs a business from Nassau on those afore-mentioned tourist boats. After they stop to feed the iguanas for 15 minutes or so, they run up here to Ship’s Channel Cay, where there are some out-buildings, a bar, a dock, pretty little beach. They can snorkel, sunbathe, hike a trail, and have lunch. Then they are all ferried back on the boat (30 – 40 people) and run back to Nassau. A day in the islands!
Once the touristas are gone, we go ashore to hang and converse with the crew left behind.
------
Today, we convened on Scooter in the morning to share Deb’s homemade muffins & plan out the day. At slack tide, we clambered into two of the 3 dinghies with wet-suits on, fins, masks, snorkels, spears and buckets all loaded in, and headed out of the anchorage to explore and hunt the beautiful reefs and coral heads around the islands. It was a good day, we returned with 3 Margates, a Hogfish and about 6 lobster. We also had a beautiful drift dive, and saw several turtles and beautiful fish and soft coral. (I know, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it).
We split the food preparation for tonight’s feast, which we will shortly bring to shore and share with the 6 people who are left on the island after working the tourist trade for the day. Last night, dinner was on Independence with the 6 of us, & we grilled the wahoo we had caught the other day. After dinner we bowled on the Wii that Scooter brought over!
Who knew there was so much to keep one occupied living on a small little space, floating in the middle of no civilization…
(Oh yes, and most importantly, there is wi-fi!!!)
Love to everyone,
S & P
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