Sue and Paul Live the Dream

Happy Holidays

2011-12-18T10:49:00.000-08:00

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Pipes Cay, Exumas

Well, where to start? Sorry, for the lack of updates recently.

For the past 2 weeks, My Sharonna, Mattina, Different Drummer and Independence have been anchored in this beautiful little cove that seems to be ours alone. We have great protection from the NE winds that have been howling for about 20 days now, and believe it or not, we are perfectly happy in our daily routines with no interruptions from the “outside world”, other than the small planes flying overhead to land at nearby Staniel Cay.

Mattina,
Different Drummer
& My Sharonna

Now that I have returned from a quick trip to Miami for treatment for my inflamed herniated disk, I can hopefully get back to a more normalized activity on Independence. I sure do count my blessings, when I am faced with physical handicap, and begin to recover!

I am so overjoyed to be back on Independence that I have begun my Christmas baking in anticipation of my beautiful daughter and her family joining us over the holiday!

The pace of living is our own. Morning, is single side band radio time. Listening in on the weather forecast, then possibly chatting with some far-off friends. The girls who are not back-traumatized usually head to the beach for early morning yoga, while the others pick at some breakfast and a second cup of coffee, or maybe tackle some repair or maintenance project on the boat.

Depending on wind and tide, the day’s activity may consist of packing up the whaler (shared by DD and Sharonna) with loads of kite gear and some coolers and heading around to the windward, yet shallow side of the island. This requires about 20 knots or higher, so there has been a fair amount of kiting these days.

Debi, Wayne, Kristina, Matt & Paul

Winding up dinner on Independence

Today, however, with one of the first days of less wind, there is a dinghy headed out for some diving and hunting. Let’s see if the guys come back with some lobster, or grouper, or conch or all of the above. Or nothing, which is also ok—we do not starve around here!

So Greetings and Happy Holidays to all our friends. Whether you are skiing, shopping, Christmas caroling, baking, or just enjoying receiving your holiday greetings- we hold you in our thoughts, and wish you an absolutely beautiful New Year!

All the best from Sue and Paul on our floating home, Independence!

Emerald Rock

2011-12-18T10:11:00.000-08:00

The following post is actually an older entry (as dated) that is only now being posted, along with a more current entry. Apologies for the old news…

Monday, December 5, 2011

Emerald Rock at Warderick Wells

Exuma Land and Sea Park

The Park, a no take zone by land and sea, was established in 1958 to preserve and maintain the delicate ecological balance of marine life in the Bahamas.

This is a direct quote from their literature. They also provide, for a charge, moorings throughout the different anchorages in the area, as well as wi-fi, which is only accessible if you are moored near the park headquarters.

There are many maintained and marked trails, as well as beautiful snorkeling opportunities. Unfortunately, the strong weather system that has kept us here the last 3 days, has also kept us out of the water. Hikes, however have been a daily activity, and yoga on the beach, and for the intrepid few- some kite-boarding and wind-surfing.

Two nights ago, we met some of our floating neighbors on the beach for a Happy Hour gathering. One young family on a charter was supposed to be back to Nassau by today, but the weather has been prohibitive. The rest of us, who are here for the season, pretty much take it in stride, and enjoy each sunset and appreciate each rain squall for it’s rinsing properties.

Cali and Farley, the anchor dogs...

Independence 2011 Cruising Season Begins

2011-11-24T04:09:00.000-08:00

Independence in the locks in Stuart after launching

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

If we’re going to do it, let’s go.

These were the words that Paul said to me this morning, after the final check on off-shore weather, between Ft. Lauderdale and Nassau for the next two days. We were as ready as we could be, having returned the rental car last night, after the last run through Total Wine (priorities!) and packing the big cooler with ice and fresh produce.

Many of our cruising buddies had already made the crossing a week ago, which we were glad we missed—as it was a rough one for a trawler. So they will have a jump on us on nabbing the season’s first lobster and maybe even getting the kite boards wet. We became the designated boat to pick up those last minute bits of equipment and provision that always crop up.

So, finally, good bye civilization as we American consumers know it, and off to the Islands, and catch as catch can.

Out of the cut, after topping off the fuel tanks, we were amidst an array of fishing boats anxious to get out for the morning bite, after a week of steady NE blow and big seas. The roughest part was that initial 2 hours, as the seas were still settling down from the week of strong wind, and we soon separated ourselves from the fleet, as we took our easterly course away from the Florida coast and the fading skyline of Miami and Ft. Lauderdale.

Thankfully, seas settled down, so Paul and I could eat some lunch, and get the fishing lines out. While he was resting down below, about 30 dolphin approached the bow of Independence for a spirited swim, leading the bow wake, riding the waves. They gradually peeled off, and I noticed behind me, as the pod regrouped, they were leaping clear out of the water, doing flips and generally showing off how to have a great time. Dolphin remind me of puppies, living for the sheer joy of each moment.

We have picked up a lot of radio chatter as we approach North Rock, our first waypoint. This is the entrance to the Bahama banks by Bimini. All the other cruisers who also took advantage of this weather window are congregating as they pass this waypoint. Paul and I enjoy a tasty dinner before sunset, which includes the best filet mignon steak I have ever tasted—courtesy of Matt and Lindsay in a rush package mailed to us just before we left.

By, nightfall we have passed through a fleet of about 20 boats (mostly sail) and have taken the lead through North Channel into the Tongue of the Ocean, for the final leg to Nassau. Our 1-hour snatches of sleep are not quite enough to stay lively, but we make it in together by 5am Thanksgiving day, and tie ourselves up at a designated slip in Nassau Harbor Club.

A couple more hours of sleep, and now we find ourselves waiting for them to open to clear customs/immigration, and hopefully press on to the Exumas.

We are so thankful to be here! Everyone enjoy your Thanksgiving!

Cruising comes to an end

2011-05-08T04:09:00.000-07:00

As our cruising season comes to a close this year, we are once again deeply grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty, adventures, camaraderie, excitement and challenges of this wonderful life-style.

We often reflect on the choices that brought us to this point, how fortunate we are to have the ability to continue to scramble around on a pitching deck, jump on and off a sea-rocked dinghy, climb steep and jagged trails, and dive to depths of the ocean to view beautiful corals and schools of colorful fish.

Giving up restaurants, malls and TV is a fine trade for the daily appreciation of each moment and each loaf of bread pulled, piping hot, out of the oven; the deep satisfaction of serving an inspired platter of sushi, prepared from the fish reeled in from the back deck of Independence; the excitement of contacting loved ones back home with challenging phone and internet connections; constant appreciation for the fresh water we drink that has been transformed from ocean water by reverse osmosis; keen awareness of the night sky, phases of the moon and tidal conditions. These simple, basic yet profound truths are the building blocks of our day and we are delighted to share them through this blog with whoever cares to imagine an alternative life-- floating on a boat!

Our last days at Rum Cay were enhanced by the arrival of Linda and Steve, who we picked up at the airstrip in the red jeep, and gave them not a moment's rest! After a conch salad lunch (we had caught and prepared), we geared them up with snorkels & fins and jumped on the dinghy for a spectacular drift dive over the wreck of the Conqueror. Steve, the first-timer, was totally game and almost speared a fish on the first try! Dinner was the usual group effort at the marina restaurant, with fresh, delicious, gourmet results.

The next day we left Rum Cay 'till next year, :( Fished our way to Salt Pond, Long Island (yup, the Bahamas Long Island) and after anchoring, swimming and showering, dinghied to the beach to hike up to a local restaurant that was serving a buffet of Bahamian treats.

The next day, after renting a car, we took in the sights: The Blue Hole, Clarencetown, with 2 historic churches built by Father Jerome (an Anglican priest, later became a Catholic priest, but started out as an architect!); back to Independence to clean up, then to another restaurant called Chez Pierre (go figure!).

Loved the visit L & S-- we had such a great time!

View from the church tower in Clarencetown

Linda & Steve about to jump into the blue hole

In the Out of the Blue kitchen

Our 2011 cruising year came to a close, after we returned to Georgetown to enjoy the Annual Family Island Regatta, which is a premier celebration in the Bahamas. Traditional, wooden, Bahamian sailing sloops arrive in the harbor, as food shacks are constructed and pop up all along the small peninsula called Regatta Point. Bahamians from all islands arrive mostly by sea-- mailboat, cargo boats, support vessels for the sloops, etc.

During the day, the harbor is enhanced by the sight of these beautiful sails chasing the buoys that mark the race course. Small dinghies, chase boats, & committee boats follow the racers, cheering and taking photos.

By night, Regatta Point is pulsing with loud music, locals dressed to party, and the smells of Bahamian fare wafting through the air. Conch fritters, fish fry, chicken, coleslaw, conch salad, all types of souse, and of course beer and gin and coconut water are offered at every stand.

Our friends from Sampson Cay, the number 1 and 2 A-class winners this year, sport a T-shirt proclaiming "On Land We Friends". The jiving and kidding of competing crews is in evidence, but out on the water the battle is for real.

Dinner at one of the "shacks"

Support & sailing crew of Tida Wave and Lady Muriel

Finally, as a break in the winds & seas came, Independence took the opportunity to make her way up the Exuma chain to Norman's Cay, where we re-connected with several friends and stayed a couple of days as we obsessively checked nautical weather reports for appropriate weather to make our way east.

Our crossing (first Noman's to Nassau, then Nassau across the Tongue of the Ocean to the banks by Chubb Cay, continuing on towards Bimini at nightfall, then across the Gulf Stream to Ft. Lauderdale by dawn) was thankfully mostly uneventful. The wind and seas behind us, no squalls.

Civilization is a shock. Pulling in to the inlet at Port Everglades, then the short distance to the marina, we are surrounded by opulent homes and row upon row of million dollar mega-yachts. Shops, cars, bicycles, pedestrians cram the scenery. We are back.

Various Adventures

2011-04-15T14:49:00.000-07:00

Petroglyphs from Hartford Cave

We circumnavigated the island on "Rock Steady" and made a stop at Hartford Cave where the Lucayan Indians had left their mark. These are the natives that Columbus found here and on San Salvador, who were subsequently wiped out by slavery and disease. The cave is only accessible by sea-- we anchored close & swam in with the calm surge that day.

On this day, we took several dinghys around to Salt Pond for a day of picnic, mud spa and turtle spotting. Oh, we came home with lots of conch, & a few grouper speared just outside the creek opening, ending the day with another fabulous pot-luck!

Hard to see, but this pre-historic looking creature is sometimes called a shovel-nose lobster or a slipper lobster. I found it snorkeling a way off from the dinghy and grabbed it (with my dive gloves on) and swam it back for my first successful hunt! It was the last day before taking lobster is banned, for spawning season.

Groovin' on Rum Cay

2011-03-13T08:00:00.000-07:00

The most recent, creative pot-luck feast...

and the gang that gathered to prepare and eat it!
We cooked and prepped sushi rice and fillings on our boats, then brought them up to the restaurant where we all got in the act of rolling nori rolls.

This happens every evening...

...and we all gather to blow conch horns and watch.

One day Peter & Suse flew their plane over from Georgetown with Paul & Melanie, and we did what we do best-- prepared food! Sue & Oscar hosted at their wonderful beach-side house.

Special lunch at Sue & Oscar's

The day we went "bush-wacking" was breezy & cool (perfect to avoid pesky noseums). Dressed in long pants, socks & shoes, we headed to an old settlement and plunged into the brush, following a rock wall up to groups of ruins. We found many broken gin bottles (over 100 yrs old), but non intact, also some shards of porcelain dishes. Most importantly, we found the only known sour orange tree, with a crop full of oranges which we shook down & gathered up!

inland to explore ruins & go bottle hunting

Rum Cay cats

A good fishing day on Independence! (and why the cats where there)

More photos

2011-02-27T08:41:00.000-08:00

Coconut water-- Rum Cay Day

Happy Birthday Rachel & Jenny

Building the fire pit

Livin' it up at Rum Cay

2011-02-27T07:54:00.000-08:00

Burning Man

Rachel- fire dancing

A ride to town on Rum Cay Day

sample feasting

Fred, Marcus & Paul (Marcus' boat)

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Rum Cay

Having just completed a week of fun with our buddies, Jen & Fred from home, we are feeling simultaneously the emptiness, and the slow—“now, what?” kind of feeling.

Oh sure, there is always the mountain of laundry to contend with, but let’s let that rest for a bit….

The Bahamian sun is beaming down, the southeast wind consistently breezing through the marina, and happily keeping the sand gnats (noseums) away.

As our stay extends, we become more and more bonded with the “family” of marina long-term guests, employees, and general gang that keeps things happening around here. There is an ebb and flow of people coming and going- by boat, by plane—often making it quite lively, sometimes easing into a short quiet solitude.

Rum Cay Day, the annual celebration for all descendants, friends and relatives of this island, has just been enjoyed with 2 days of music, food and drinks! The Lady Frances (the supply boat that comes in weekly) has been berthed at Government dock for two days, as it brought in the off-islanders, and musicians, etc. The local ladies cooked up heaps of Bahamian treats—conch salad, conch fritters, fried fish, fried chicken, mac & cheese, sheep’s tongue souse, sweet potato-coconut bread, and other treats. (uh-huh, very low-cal)

The kiter-kids have been very busy building a fire pit on the beach, next to the burning man sculpture, and we had a great bonfire & birthday celebration for Jenny and Rachel. There was some fabulous fire-dancing, and birthday dessert and a good time had by all.

Fishing has been keeping us in tuna, wahoo and mahi-mahi. Pot-lucks and group dinners are an almost daily event. The feasting is always gourmet.

Best wishes to everyone, Spring is just around the corner!

Honorable visit and Valentine's Party

2011-02-15T08:01:00.000-08:00

Sharing the Valentine Love

loaded down for the pot-luck

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Yesterday the Governor-General of the Bahamas, Sir Arthur Foulkes, paid a visit to little ol’ Rum Cay. For weeks ahead of time, there was an island-wide spruce up—the ladies were in the old cemetery, hoeing, raking and burning up the weeds; the island’s only lawn mower made it’s appearance along the edges of the town roads; the airport (shed) was decorated with Bahamian banners.

Paul and I went to the reception and presentation at the one-room schoolhouse, which was packed to capacity with about 50 seats and standing around the edges. The school kids performed brilliantly—singing songs, reciting poems and history of Rum Cay, and presenting gifts to the honored guests. All the town dignitaries were there in crisp uniforms (the 2 nurses in their starched white caps & gowns, constables, etc).

Sir Arthur Foulkes is a gentleman, who started out as a journalist, likes jazz and opera, and spoke directly to the young students, imploring them to read books always, and to stay in school. He brought a message of unity to the people, noting how expensive & difficult it was to run a government over the many islands of the Bahamas, and he highlighted the talented Bahamians who have won Olympic medals and achieved fame in arts and entertainment.

We forget that these islands just achieved their independence less than 40 years ago. Imagine the growing pains and challenges to a country that offers no exports. Anyway, our slice of paradise certainly has a gritty reality.

After his visit, at the end of the day, there was a pot luck Valentine party at Kay’s Restaurant. Most of the gang from the marina & some other cruising folks were there, as well as many of the white folks who reside here in the winter, and over a dozen locals. A happy time, sharing the love…

This morning, after my bike ride and yoga on the dock, I happily consumed a huge bowl of cereal with Sue's homemade creamy coconut milk - yum!

Island Life

2011-02-11T12:35:00.000-08:00

Our morning bike ride

Nice catch, guys!

The northeast side of the island

Oscar, Paul, Roy & Dimitri

Chrys, Sue, Suzette -- another group dinner

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Is it February already? It will be a short one, then we will roar into March…

Out travels have stabilized, now that we are at Rum Cay. Settled in like part of the family, we are fortunate to have Electra at the dock, also for an extended stay. This means some more good buddies and constant activity and interesting events going on.

Dinnertime is usually a large social event, that involves gathering up at the marina restaurant (which we surreptitiously take over) and cook our catch, bring prepared dishes up from our boats, and/or eat something delicious prepared by Rasta, Bobby or various “guest chefs”.

The days roll on, and we fall into the island rhythm. Maintenance, cleaning and cooking, although essential, take on a kind of island-aspect – almost a social activity. We all share the day’s events, the day’s catch and the day’s momentum.

Today, as the unexpected wind blows steadily out of the southeast, I appreciate the peacefulness and freedom of not having a schedule or deadline. The laundry is drying on the line in Sue & Oscar’s yard and we are drying our bodies after a refreshing swim in the glittering turquoise water. Yes, life is good and we are truly blessed.

PS Meanwhile, an historic moment unfolds in Egypt, and it is just incredible to me how the power of the internet has influenced, abetted, and informed so much social and political change in such a blink of an eye! What an amazing world we live in…

Rum Cay at Last

2011-01-24T13:43:00.000-08:00

Arriving at Dolores' Birthday Party

A great sail on Rubicon- thanks Adam

no explanation needed!

January 24, 2011

Rum Cay, Bahamas

Although many friends said they would join us in cruising to this island this year, we departed Georgetown on our own and trolled 4 lines all day hitting our most promising fishing spots to no avail. We arrived fishless, but were greeted with a homecoming welcome, nonetheless. Sue and Oscar provided us with a luscious lobster dinner and the ever-running red jeep. Having wheels on this island is a real plus, especially when you hang here as long as we do. Happy to see our good buddies again.

Needless to say, activities began the very next day, and haven't slowed yet. Our morning bike ride to the airport is a resumed daily activity that we enjoyed last year. Bobby has made everyone welcome, as he always does, treating us to adventure days out on Rock Steady to surf spots as the swell comes up.

All the current folks at the marina made a great pot-luck up at the restaurant Saturday night, and Sunday Paul & I were treated to a great sail on Rubicon, a smooth-sailing St. Francis catamaran. Thanks, Adam, you are a consummate sailor!

Tonight we head to a community pot-luck Birthday party for Dolores, who turns 79 today. We have enjoyed this annual birthday celebration for years now. This year we bring king fish ceviche and a carrot cake. (the fish was given to us by another fisherman with more luck than Independence)

Sooo, time to go. Catch up with us next time on Independence...

Georgetown, the metropolis

2011-01-18T17:02:00.001-08:00

Carol, Wayne, Sharon, Sue

Melanie, Peter, Susa, Paul & Paul on a barge picnic

Pot-luck on the beach

January 18, 2011

Georgetown, Exumas

Independence has been here for two weeks, and as we plan on leaving tomorrow morning, I suppose I should review our stay in this more urban environment. Georgetown is the destination for many cruisers, understandably so, as I will explain.

Cruising down the Exuma chain of islands, one encounters "Family Islands" with small settlements, often including a relatively protected harbor for safe anchorage. These settlements offer at least a market (often part of a private dwelling) which is modestly stocked with the arrival, once a week, of the supply boat (also known as the mailboat). The boat which originates from Nassau, often spends the week with stops at the various settlements & islands in it's territory. Refrigeration on these boats is haphazard, if at all functional, and crates & boxes are loaded on deck, below deck and wherever these old, rusty vessels can accommodate cargo.

Obviously, smaller settlements see smaller deliveries less often, and are low priority for the supply boat captain.

In addition to a market, a settlement may have a bar that might serve food, with enough advance notice. There will definitely be at least one church, possibly more. If you don't have a water maker on your boat, you are also on the lookout for water-- decent well water, or R/O (reverse osmosis) water. A pay phone, in the old days, but more often now the search is for internet. So you make do with what you find, & are happy for it.

Then you arrive at Grand Exuma, the bottom of the Exuma chain, and there is bustling Georgetown. There are government buildings, a school, a library, a straw market, many restaurants, gift & household shops, and a well-stocked- honest-to-God supermarket! A major airport (for Bahamas) is miles away, taxis make a living, and you can go out and hear music or go to a sport bar most nights of the week.

Additionally, for the cruiser, there is a huge harbor protected from all wind direction, and a social network established over the years, that caters to the needs and pleasures of a cruiser. Many call it adult camp, due to the excess of organized activities such as beach volleyball, Texas hold-'em poker games, watercolor groups, swimming clinics, fishing seminars, basket-weaving, dances, pot-luck beach dinners, etc., etc.

Of course, the non-organized activities are all those gatherings and outings with fellow cruising friends, so basically you are busier here than most people are at home.

Paul and I absorb it all for a week or two, till we are on overload, then it's time to head on out. We have bid good-bye for now to our buddies, & will fish our way to Rum Cay tomorrow to join up with a whole other set of buddies! Hopefully, most of these continuous winter cold fronts will begin to subside, or at least give us longer breaks between each front, and we will finally spend more time in the water. Let the snorkeling and diving begin! (we have been bundled up in layers of clothes and foul weather jackets for too long-- it makes for a lot more laundry than we are used to)

Next stop: Rum Cay

Weather is Everything!

2011-01-07T06:13:00.000-08:00

Independence at anchor

Friday, January 7, 2011

Six days a week, at 6:30 am, our weather guru, Chris Parker broadcasts the marine weather forecast for the Bahamas. It is around this event that the cruiser’s day hinges. The broadcast is received on the Single Side Band radio (SSB), a ham radio which is almost standard equipment for most cruisers. Alternately, one can receive him on a web chat forum, for those land-based folks who have the luxury of continuous, broad bandwidth, or, later in the afternoon, in the form of an email to all subscribing customers.

If you are a “sponsoring” listener, Chris opens up the broadcast at the end of the forecast, to receive callers with specific weather and sea-state questions. (“We are underway, headed to Mayaguana, with a stop at Rum Cay, should we go straight through due to the approaching front? Or will it dissipate by the time we enter these waters?”) Chris, patiently offers the best advice based on the grib charts and models.

Although I have been listening (and dutifully recording) these forecasts for many years, the whole thing is still a mystery to me. Last night, Chris’ forecast for the Georgetown area included the information that this next cold front would be passing through around 3am with winds clocking west to west-northwest (310degrees), possible squalls accompanying the front- nothing too severe, and winds at about 20- 25 knots (possible 30 in squalls). Sure enough at about 4am, the wind begins to stiffen, the boat points Northwest as a shower of rain gives all boats in the harbor a well-needed rinse.

What amazes me, is how do they know? I mean, these weather guys, they look at some data, and some radar—sure, they know the trends and how high or low pressure affects the surrounding winds—but, jeez, to say that in a certain area at a certain time, a certain weather event will occur in just such a certain way… Like I said, an amazing mystery.

Another source of amazement is our anchor. So after we listen to Chris’ forecast, we make a decision as to the safest and most comfortable anchorage, taking into account wind direction, wave direction if there is a swell and if it wraps around a point or island, as well as proximity to any activities for the day. In settled weather, we drop the hook, let out enough chain, and generally swing with the strong currents that run through the island chains—keeping the waters clear and clean. When the wind howls, sometimes for days, the chain is straight out from anchor to bridle, holding the 20-ton weight of Independence, as she weaves and bobs in the wind. So, just this hunk of steel with pointed edges to dig in the sand is what we count on to hold our floating home from running up onto the rocks. When those cold fronts come through at night, everyone’s VHF radios are tuned to 16, and sleep is light and interrupted by every change in the feel of the boat’s movement, or static on the radio. I’ll save the stories of dragging anchors for another time!

Last night was uneventful, and we wake up, once again, to the beautiful Bahamian sunrise as we listen to Chris Parker on the SSB, dictate where we will spend out the next few days based on weather…

Catching up to 2011

2010-12-26T15:36:00.000-08:00

photo: "Tida Wave" crossing the finish line- the Winner! (note the firing cannon)

The young and very talented crew on Seabird have entertained us, and offered lots of kiting instruction to the novice kiters. Thank you Gary, Drom and Rachael! The fire dancing was also awesome.

The Gang of 14 on Christmas Eve has dwindled down to 10 of us who are staying on in the Staniel Cay area for the next week full of events, including the Class-A Bahamian sloop regatta.

We are starting to loose patience with these continuous fronts-- it seems we are getting hit once a week, with a 2-3 day blow. It's a constant juggle with anchoring on the protected sides of the islands. At least the kite-boarders have an activity during these blustery days, and of course, as I write this, the northeast is bracing itself for a major snow dump that is likely to close down transportation hubs, & likewise keep everyone "house-bound".

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Happy New Year!

It has been a busy whirl of events here in Staniel Cay. Closing out the year with a free cookout hosted by locals for everyone, a long-drive contest (who can hit the golf ball the farthest out into the bay from the dock), an adrenaline-filled A-class regatta (Paul & I both on the winning boat!), then a pig-roast bar-b-q at the yacht club for New Year’s Eve, followed by midnight fireworks right over Independence.

This morning, we all hauled ourselves out of bed to jump on to Different Drummer for the Cruiser’s Regatta, from which we emerged once again as Champions!!! A great race, with some tough competition, but our crew was tight like clockwork—no mistakes!

We will hit the town beach this evening for the awards ceremony, and another cookout—which just about rounds out all the year end, scheduled activities. I think I will sleep straight for two days….

Welcoming in 2011, and wishing you all peace, health, prosperity—and most of all, may we all remember to Share the Love!

Compass Cay hiking

2010-12-19T07:53:00.000-08:00

Cold Front Season (or the Christmas Winds)

2010-12-18T05:34:00.000-08:00

(pictures to follow at next strong internet connection....)

Our “gang” is now a 5 boat flotilla, loosely gathered, for the most part, occasionally splitting up to different locations as changes in weather affect our anchorages.
Most recently, 3 of us spent a few days tied up at the marina at Compass Cay. If it’s in the budget, it’s a great treat to be at this dock. The marina is like one giant aquarium. Nurse sharks, snapper, cute, little seargent-majors, and many others swim around in profusion- happily eating up the food scraps tossed over from your meal preparations. Tourists arrive in small power boats to swim with the sharks in the crystal clear water of this marina.
Before it got too windy, we all enjoyed the common grill on the dock bringing our pot-luck dishes and feasting on the fresh wahoo caught on Jabulani. During the blow, we bundled up and headed out on any of the many well-marked trails which criss-cross this small island. Our 2 hour walk, was a hike northward up the spine of the north ridge, over flattened, rough coral (we call moon rock) and along some windswept beach coves (where we look for washed up treasure), finally ending up at the “bubble bath” at the northern tip.
Bubble bath is at the western end of a shallow tidal inlet that pools to over 6 feet at the bottom edge of a large cliff face with a V-shape split that allows breaking waves from the Sound to crash through into the pool, creating a bubbling, frothing, whirling bath!
Our second walk, on the next day, did not end so well. Jasper, (Libby & Frank’s dog) pounced on a baby sting ray and before he could be stopped, he had it in his mouth, and of course got stung—ending up with blood at his neck and a very quiet disposition on the rapid return home.
Apparently, the toxins from a ray are extremely painful, and you must get any remaining barbs out of the skin. The good news is you won’t die from the sting—hot water compresses apparently help disperse the toxins. On a careful note, you must be alert for a secondary infection that could occur in a couple of weeks due to fish toxins—only certain antibiotic can fight this. Jasper woke up himself the following morning, & seems fully recovered at the moment.
Currently, we are anchored at Big Major, next to Fowl Cay. We’ve had a lovely couple of days—kayaking, dinghy into town (Staniel Cay) for a beer & some conch fritters. Yesterday I took the dinghy through the cut to Sampson Cay Marina (next island north) with a pile of laundry, & used their brand new machines to catch up on clean t-shirts & linens. Tina and I ended up staying there for lunch (2 for 1 homemade pizza), ate an entire pizza, & brought one back for the boys. Last night, as the gang played Texas hold-em on Mattina, we watched our second Green Flash at sunset!!
Indepencence has Christmas lights on her mast and boom, as well as decorations in the main salon. It’s beginning to look like Christmas in the tropics…
Wishing you all Happy Holidays and warm companionship!
Till next time….
Sue and Paul

Nassau to Compass Cay

2010-12-05T12:28:00.000-08:00

Trucks still drive on this loading dock at Norman's Cay!

Can you believe we played at the swim park in Atlantis? If you are unfamiliar, Atlantis is a resort on Paradise Island ( a bridge over from Nassau), known for stupendous, larger than life architecture, underground meandering aquariums which house everything from beautiful sea-horses to sharks, lobster and jellyfish. There is also a swim-park with rides like "The Leap of Faith", which is a 60-ft. vertical drop into a tube surrounded by shark-swimming waters.

We have visited before, but never had the "wristband" to actually go into these resort perks. The layout and design of this resort is truly visionary, and may arguably be the only successful tourist facility in Nassau. (though, rumors have it they may be in trouble financially)

That was a fun send-off, our last day in Nassau, and finally we have arrived at Norman's Cay. This island was made famous when the Medelin Cartel drug lord Carlos Lehder made this his headquarters in the late 70's. He bullied everyone else off the island and with his armed thugs, prevented any outside planes from landing on his newly-built extended runway.

The remains of a downed drug plane still stick up from the middle of the harbor at low tide, and the ruins of his dock-side operation are crumbling under the palm trees.

Now that the reign of terror is over, private owners have returned to their remote homes on this island, and a small, family-run resort offers cottages on the beach and the only restaurant around. Small charter planes fly in and out.

For the cruiser, it offers a protected harbor and a lovely beach, as well as a road the length of the island, for some good walking, running or biking exercise. When the wind is right, the kite-boarder is kept busy, and on a calm day a kayak up into the north end can take all day.

Obviously, we are in no rush to leave, there is still some spear-fishing to do, as well as more wahoo to catch! Every day boats pull in for the night, and leave next morning-- guess they are in a rush to get to Georgetown! We are happy where we are for the moment, and each day serves up it's own rewards.

The Crossing

2010-11-28T13:46:00.000-08:00

Arrival in Nassau

sunset on the banks

Blue Marlin

So, after a false start on Friday afternoon, when the wind failed to settle down, Independence got an early start Saturday morning, Bahamas bound. As the distinct coastline of Dade and Broward County became more and more miniature on the horizon, Paul & I made our last cell phone calls to family & friends to let them know we were off-shore at last. It was calm enough to notice the sharp, short chop at the western wall of the Gulf Stream followed by the distinct 3-knot northward push, resulting in our slower speed.

The daylight hours included several citings. First, the spray of whales that Paul spotted, then minutes later I saw spray twice more (although the type of whale can be identified by the shape of the spray, we do not possess that knowledge!)

While this was happening, we simultaneously hooked our first fish of the season, and true to custom, when we reeled it in it was a barracuda—oh well.

A little later, I spotted a big turtle, lounging at the surface just alongside our boat and finally, in the afternoon one of our reels hits and start spinning out at such a speed, Paul could not stop it, and I throttled back to neutral. This fish was big—it almost spooled us. The next hour Paul fought and pulled back on this fish that was diving deep and taking him from one side of the boat to the other, as I scrambled to pull in the other lines, and pump the boat in and out of gear to keep the fish where we could handle it.

It turned out, Paul’s first guess was correct—a beautiful, blue marlin! (the other guesses were a big tuna, or a shark) We had to cut it away, hook still in, and I fear the worse for the poor fish, but maybe by miracle he revived….

We were pretty exhausted by then, glad for the workout (likely the only exercise we would get for over 20 hours), and also pleased to know that our gear held up and we managed to bring the fish to the boat—it’s always a learning experience!

Sunset was lovely, and after refreshing showers, we enjoyed crab cakes on a bed of greens, that we had purchased from The Fish Peddler, in Ft. Lauderdale. Paul is now feeding me coconut stuffed cookies from the German bakery—yumm…

We have passed several sailboats, with whom we made radio contact—all headed towards Nassau to clear customs and immigration, then on to the Exumas. It is dark, now- the stars are a glittering blanket overhead—so abundant and clear, I have forgotten what the night sky looks like with no other ambient light.

Our plan is to pull over in another couple of hours, just before we leave the shallow waters of the banks at Northwest Channel, which is the entrance to the Tongue of the Ocean- that extremely deep body of water that lies between there and New Providence Island, the location of Nassau. We will drop the anchor in about 10 ft of water about a mile off the waypoint course, and sleep till dawn. Tomorrow, we cruise the Tongue of the Ocean (where the sea state can kick up in a nasty way, but we are counting on continued light & variable wind). We should arrive in Nassau around 1 pm or so, and after customs, etc., if I am lucky and the internet at the Starbucks (!) across from the marina is working, I should be able to post this, and someone other than myself will read it!!!

Tada!

PS Even better.... managed to snag wi-fi on the dock, so I am posting this from the comfort of Independence, safely snuggled in to Harbor Club Marina, rinsed down, and a mahi in our cooler, which will soon be on our dinner plates!!

THANK YOU!

2010-11-25T06:14:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving, for many of us, is a day to gather with family, friends, and loved-ones, and share a feast of bounty, re-connect with many friends and neighbors, enjoy a football game or two, and mostly to count our blessings.

Amidst concerns about rising tensions in North and South Korea, our country’s interminable engagement in Afghanistan and the Middle East, and the stresses of unemployment and economic struggles, we strive to focus on, and acknowledge the many often-overlooked blessings we receive.

And there are many. Wouldn’t it be interesting if every morning, as we tuned in to the news, the headlines would read: “Millions Awoke to Good Health and Sunshine”; or “Strangers Exchange Smiles in Crowded Supermarket”; or possibly “Lovingly Tended Sprouts Yield Bumper Crop of Peas”. Imagining these story leads is fun (try a few of your own.. really).

So, today, I reinforce my commitment to fully acknowledge, with gratitude, each and every one of my meals—the source of nutrition and energy for my living body. I am extremely thankful that my parents, who loved and nurtured me throughout my life, are still a vital source of my life, and able to enjoy their days and their growing family of great-grandchildren. I could almost weep with gratitude that my children, now grown, have found partners to love and be cherished and feel the joy of their own family living. I am grateful that my love and partner has shared with me his life, showing in all that he does his sincere commitment and love. I am fortunate, that in tough economic times, we have been strong and able to share the bounty with those less fortunate. I am also incredibly blessed by the number and the quality of the friendships that have come my way, and pledge to honor those relationships for the true treasure they are.

There are so many more, which is why this spirit of gratitude, which is sparked on Thanksgiving, can easily be carried through every day of the year. So, let’s expand our focus and conversation on the blessings, and limit complaints of real or perceived travails. We might just find that by smiling more often—we start to glow in our hearts, from the moment of waking to “Good Health and Sunshine”!

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Culinary Experiences

2010-11-09T06:39:00.000-08:00

Paul Wagner carving our "pre-Thanksgiving" turkey
Our hostess, Barb(right), with Kristina and Melanie

But first, ready for this?

A new dining experience that I venture to say anyone reading this has likely not shared... Last night Paul & I joined 2 other couples for a meal in the dark. I mean, total blackness. No hints of light coming through cracks in a window or door, blackout curtains.. total blackness.

This is how it works: You arrive at the restaurant (yes, we paid for this experience), and as you sit at the bar, where there is normal bar lighting and lovely decor, the waiter introduces himself and explores eating allergies and food dislikes with the group. The food here is focused on fresh, Florida produce, fish & organic choices.

After we decide on how many courses (six), and if we want the wine pairings (of course), he leads you to the dark room which has been reserved exclusively for our group. One by one, you place a hand on his shoulder as he brings you in, seats you at the table and indicates the placement of the fork (fork is optional, hands encouraged), napkin and water glass. We have promised not to turn on our cell phones, and once we are all seated, we realize how truly black it is-- even with eyes dilated there is nothing to see. Oh, our waiter wears an infrared light so he can see, & when he enters there is a small red pinpoint of light.

After pouring our waters, he returns with the first wine-- a stemless glass (whew!), that we receive by cupping our hands in a "C" shape on the table in front of us. Somehow, we managed to toast the glasses reaching them toward each other till we clinked! Not to brag, but our group was brilliant at guessing both the wines (except for one) and the foods that were served to us, but I'm getting ahead...

The first course was a salad of beets, bib lettuce and assorted condiments. We soon ditched the forks, and cleaned our plates with our fingers. Did anyone lick the plates? who knows? We got pretty good at it after a while, and enjoyed smelling, tasting and defining what was in our mouths at the time. Six people together can generally come up with most of the flavors, although the pompano had us stumped. Some of us thought it was bison, it had a smoky flavor.

All in all, I would have to say, not only was it a unique way to dine, but a fun way to get to know several new people, whether you were sitting next to each other or not-- the conversation was always all inclusive and generated lots of laughter. If you are not fearful of the dark (or claustrophobic, I guess) this is a terrific idea, and I thank Suzette for being the catalyst for yet another unique birthday celebration! (sorry, no photos, I did not have my "infra-red camera"!)

Kudos must be said also to another great meal we had with friends in Vero Beach, hosted by Barb & Jim Gardner, who treated us to our 2nd annual pre-thanksgiving turkey dinner. Yup, stuffing, gravy & the works-- we are all hoping Barb will continue this wonderful tradition, when several of our "cruising family" finally congregates in southern Florida each November.

By the way, we are just warming up after a surprisingly COLD, cold-front. Jackets, socks, shoes and down comforter, all came in to play. This is Florida, isn't it??

Drop us a line, when you get a chance-dear readers!

S & P

on Independence in Stuart

Settling in to Independence

2010-11-03T08:12:00.000-07:00

Still here in Stuart. This has proven to be a reasonable base to both north and south to visit with friends. Nice, having a rental car to run around...

Our first real provisioning trip to BJ's resulted in stuffing paper towel rolls, t.p. rolls, and boxes of zip-lock bags into every nook & cranny, under sinks & shelves. We haven't even started with food yet!--non-perishable first, then there definitely will be very little room left for last minute perishables. Is it my imagination, or does our boat keep getting smaller?

Our shiny, 18-coat varnished, sole-floor is finally starting to set. We are still afraid to walk on it, & yes shoes are still outlawed.

Although, the weather has been beautiful & hot, there is a cold front coming in this weekend, bringing temps down to the 50's. I imagine this is the first of a wave of fronts that begin to sweep in at this time of the year. (A good argument for crossing to the Bahamas in October)

Melanie & Paul are still here in Stuart on their new boat, Kiwi, so we have had some nice company to break up the boat preparations. I am continually grateful for the gift of living this life, water, sunshine.. ok, let's balance that with traffic and far-right republicans...

Southwest Air to Florida

2010-10-27T04:54:00.000-07:00

As I read my Facebook feed, I am grateful that, once again, we were able to fly into Florida where Independence waits, thus avoiding the long, sometimes arduous, sometimes boring, trip down the East Coast at bicycle speed. Our cruising buddies have been checking in on their own meandering voyages down the ICW, and we are all beginning to converge down here in our sunny, retirement state of Florida.

The boat launch was uneventful (this is a good thing), and Independence is in good shape. The main upgrade this year (other than the repair of the cracked keel), has been to the interior. After the application of 15 coats of "AllBright" to our teak parquet sole, we feel as though we are stepping onto a mirror when entering the cabin. Shoes will not be allowed to step on this floor! We are still waiting for it to cure completely (2 weeks), before we can even place a chair or the area rugs down on it.

The fumes kept us from sleeping aboard the first few nights, so we became guests at the Gustavson's in Palm Beach, then aboard Wagner's "Kiwi" (still in the yard at Stuart, undergoing renovations)

The first night on Indy, Paul & I camped out on the bridge, as the smell was still noticeable, until just before dawn raindrops woke us up & sent us scurrying to close up the hatches!

We had a wonderful lunch reunion with Kathleen & Jim Ruffino, & yesterday re-united with Kristina & Matt, who are moored at Vero Beach.

We managed to unpack the 13 (!) boxes we shipped ourselves from home, and slowly we will begin the provisioning process. Mostly, we will still be checking out systems, replacing filters, etc.

There is a pot-luck, chili bake-off, halloween party at our marina on Saturday. Too hokey? Should we go? What a bunch of characters seem to be congregated here... lots of folks seemingly here for the season. There is a river walk that begins at the marina restaurant and ends in the heart of historic downtown Stuart-- kinda nice.

Send in your halloween costume ideas, and keep us posted on your own seasonal progress!

Remember, the Trick is to remember life is the Treat!!

With a smile,

yours truly, once again on Independence

October; Harvest, Change & Reflection

2010-10-07T07:21:00.000-07:00

Up north in our paradise on the East End of Long Island, we are starting to feel the chill. Summer is over, the air is clean and crisp, and colors are deep and true. A beautiful cheese pumpkin sits on my front stoop waiting to be cooked into a pie & other assorted goodies. Farm stands are overflowing with bounty of the harvest-- the new additions are the many varieties of apples, seckel pears, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, and of course, the colorful winter squashes.

The summer has been grand! Paul & I immersed ourselves in our non-profit organization, the East End Student Film Project, till the end of August. We saw over 50 young kids pass through the animation & filmmaking classes we offered in a great studio space downtown. The EESFP season culminated in the 5th annual student film fest, which played to an overflow crowd and was followed by a great wrap party at our favorite cafe--Aldo's.

After a brief break, the family tumbled headlong into the Great Wedding Event. Lisa and Lance organized the most spectacular, beautiful, (all right, I'll even say "story-book") wedding at a local vineyard--overlooking the bay and Shelter Island. The food, dancing and company were unsurpassed. The event went by so quickly, Lisa & I both agree we would love to be invited back to experience it all over again! For two weeks, family from across the globe came and went, & many pleasant meals were shared by huge gatherings.

As we pack up the outdoor furniture, and replace screens with storm windows, our thoughts begin to focus on the boxes to be packed and sent to Florida in order to shift our lives onto our floating winter home. It's a very different process, now that we have decided to leave Independence in Stuart, stored indoors, over the summer months. The long and eventful, and sometimes not so eventful (read boring) trip down the east coast and mostly in the ICW is for now, a thing of the past. There are certain stops we will miss, but we have gained extra weeks of beautiful fall weather in our northern backyard.

On the 20th of October (less than 2 weeks!) we will fly down to Florida & begin the process of launching Independence, finishing up work/maintenance, heading down to Ft. Lauderdale for complete provisioning, fueling, etc and then we aim to look for our crossing weather window some time in mid-November.

Can't wait to see all our cruising pals, and shift our gears into the small living space we call home on Independence! Hope you all had a great summer...

Fwd: Catching up with the ground hog

2010-02-03T10:49:00.000-08:00

Georgetown, Exuma

Friends!

Hard to believe that almost a month has gone by since my last post. Although we are in Georgetown at this moment (as when I last wrote), we have moved around a bit in the interim.

First we went to Rum Cay, catching a beautiful wahoo on the way, and arriving just in time to spend an evening with Sue & Oscar, before they flew off-island for a visit to Dominica & friends who run an eco-resort there. Generous, as always, they supplied us with the keys to their golf cart, and access to their home (internet & washing machine). We made use of their golf cart, with a fun excursion to the north beach, and I spent a few relaxing hours in shade on their beautiful beach.

Every morning began with a bike ride to the airstrip and back, first morning w/ Sue and Oscar, and after they left, I rode with Suzette. Suzette, Roy & guests on George's beautiful boat, Electra, were tied up just alongside us in the marina, & it was fun to catch up with them for a few days.

Bobby, with his usual generosity of spirit and fun, hosted and kept us all busy with small boat trips around the island to Salt Pond, various remote beaches, coral reefs and other adventure spots. We returned from all of these with conch, lobster, whelk, and otherwise delicious and delectable treasures. Evenings would find us up at the Out of the Blue restaurant, in the kitchen, conjuring up dishes, while we talked and sipped wine and saki. The fish and pizza (on pizza nights) was all roasted in the outside wood-fired oven.

Needless to say, the nights ran late, & exhausted we fell into bed, within minutes of deep slumber.

Paul and I managed several deep dives on the wall just outside the marina. The deep trenches, and coral formations were as stunning as ever. After about a week, we took a calm weather day to cruise back to Georgetown, & caught a Mahi on the way back.

Georgetown activities then took over. Let's see.. yoga and beach walks in the morning, trips into town for laundry, garbage drop-off, or food shopping. Afternoons might find us at volleyball beach for a rousing game of regulation fours, or maybe just chatting & visiting with other cruisers at Chat 'n Chill. By then, the happy hour and/or dinner plans have been made with a small or large group- on the beach or someone's boat. There is usually an option for weekly night activities, such as: Texas Hold 'em, Trivial Pursuit Night, Rockin' Dances, or in town- Rake 'n Scrape (the live Bahamian music).
Being in Georgetown is a different kind of exhausting.

A few days ago, with some settled weather, a few of us cruised to Conception Island (about 35 miles from Gtown, or 5 hours for Independence). Conception is north of Rum Cay, & is a small, un-inhabited island in the middle of the ocean. The water is even more crystal clear, staghorn & elkhorn coral formations ring the north side of the island. (similar to Rum Cay) Picking your way through these formations on the dinghy is quite challenging if the sun is not directly overhead for good visibility, but once you find a spot to anchor and jump in with your mask & fins, it is like a magic wonderland.

We had a pot-luck feast on the beach, & a moonrise bonfire. Although, we did not catch a fish on our lines on the way over, Paul managed to spear a beautiful yellow-fin grouper to share with the group. The next day, the boys went out hunting again, and came back with an even bigger grouper! What a haul!

This morning we left the anchorage at Conception (and the rolling surge), and fished our way back to Georgetown. We were one of four boats out there, trying everything to snag a fish (following weed lines, birds, hitting favorite pinnacle spots, lures and bait...) and we all got skunked this time. Where did the fish go? Oh, I know, that's why they call it fishing, not catching.

So, it's late, I think I have an internet connection so I will send this off with our best wishes & greetings to everyone.

Cheers,
Sue & Paul
Independence

Windy day of kites, Foodie day of walks

2010-01-14T12:37:00.001-08:00

Let me begin by saying, that after a long spell without internet, I have access for a short time, so I am pasting a previously written post, as a way of update.

Also, our hearts go out to the poor, and long-suffering Haitians, who now are having to endure this most recent natural tragedy. We had a brief time of alertness for a possible tsunami watch, which was quickly dismissed, but decided we would be safest in our boats, but not in a harbor if that really came to pass. Do we begin to sense that this natural planet is having a hard time balancing in a more subtle way the trauma that has been persistently inflicted by human progress? This is perhaps a topic too wide to broach here, so I will leave it there for now.

We continue to count our blessings for every day, every moment which allows us to enjoy the beauty around us, as well as the tragedy.

Before all these pressing thoughts, the following is how our days have progressed! :

Monday, January 11, 2010
Georgetown, Grand Exuma

There are days that begin, no plan, quiet and easy, with the standard procedure – turn on the single side-band radio for the morning weather report, start up the generator, and boil water for coffee or tea.

This morning started out thus, the wind was still steady & strong from the passage of last night's cold front. (Which, incidentally, has also clearly reinforced the reason we call it a COLD front. I know, I know, most of you who are further north are thinking, "you have no idea—you want to talk cold???" yeah, I know- but when the warmest thing you have on board is a thin fleece, and a foul weather jacket, the chill in the persistent wind is hard to combat).

Anyway, hot tea in hand, fried eggs and fresh bread on my plate, the day stretched out ahead luxuriously empty of commitment. Perhaps a walk along the beach at low tide, to search out some more emerald nerites (fabulous, tiny, emerald-green snail shells). Or maybe a little baking, or perhaps simply sitting on the bridge, protected by the enclosure and reading my book.

As those thoughts were percolating in my brain, the radio cackled with the chatter of the "kiter dudes"—Wayne and Charlie, who are arranging a trip down to Man of War Cay, the perfect place for this northeast wind to kite board today. "Paul, are you in?"

Understand, that Paul took some lessons last year, and over the summer invested in some equipment which he had yet to use, plus a new second kite, which he recently purchased. (you need different sizes for different wind conditions). Still at the beginner stage, he needed practice, and some support folks to go out with—like now.

I decided to go along for the adventure, packing extra warm clothes in a dry bag, & a small cooler with lunch.
To get there, (a 4-mile dinghy ride,) we loaded up 2 dinghies with 6 kites, 3 boards, rigging paraphernalia, dry bags, lunches and 5 people bundled up in wet gear and foul-weather jackets. We splashed our way down-wind, being pushed not only by the wind, but the fetch of 2-3 ft. waves rolling down the length of the harbor. Phew!

"There" turned out to be a huge rolling stretch of white sand bay bottom, totally exposed now, at dead-low tide, the patterns in the sand creating ripple-like wave effects, and numerous small, gray starfish lying scattered under a thin coating of sand. This giant sand-bar would eventually be covered by water, as the day wore on, and the tide seeped in. Down wind, of this perch the water is all shallow, and great for boarding, as you can step (or fall) off your board, and be standing less than knee-deep in water. Makes for an easier start, apparently.

The wind was unrelenting, which is great for the kites, but this was so cold, even the "tough-boys" were freezing. Everyone got out for some good runs, though Paul is just learning to get on the board, & was trying out the brand new kite.

Fortunately for some of us, we begged a ride back (against the wind & waves) in a larger, go-fast dinghy from a new friend, while Wayne & Paul struck out on their own in the other 2 dinghies.

Everyone returned to their boats, safe, happy, tired and cold! Hot showers, yay! We rinsed off the gear & hung it around the boat to dry, then, finally, Paul & I settled in to a nice spaghetti & wahoo meatball sauce dinner with fresh green salad. A glass of red wine, and a movie (for Paul), while I type up this e-mail. I guarantee, when our heads hit the pillow, there will be about 30 seconds, and then Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010
The next day.

Yes, it was a sound sleep, and we woke up to… easing winds, calm seas, and sunny skies. (Still chilly, but as the clouds dissipated, the sun was very warming)

Paul started the day today with a long walk along the Stocking Island beach with Wayne and the mini-dog, Callie. I did yoga on the beach with the girls.

After preparing a fish salad, from the left over Dorado we caught several days ago, we packed that into the dinghy, and headed to Top of the World, which is Paul & Melanie's paradise piece of Elizabeth Island (the next one down from our anchorage).

They had arranged a beautiful luncheon with our mutual friends- Susa and Peter (from Montauk); and Suzanne & Steve. Yup, that would be 3 "Sue's" and 2 "Paul's". We sat out on their deck and devoured a nice chicken chili/stew and a loaf of delicious, crusty bread (Melanie's 48-hour bread, or some such thing) that accounted for 80% of the lunch time conversation. Laughs and good times….

Later we took a walk on some of their trails, up to the gazebo at the high point (Top of the World), with a view of Georgetown and the entire harbor, and down to one of the pocket beaches, before winding our way back to the boathouse.

By the time we finally rousted ourselves to dinghy back to Independence, it was almost time to prepare dinner, which I did, after admiring a beautiful sunset from our bridge with Paul and Charlie, whose wife Liz flew home for a week of work. We then enjoyed a simple vegetable stir-fry, chocolate biscotti, more good conversation, and a late (9 pm!) good night to another amazing day.

Love to all of you,
Sue and Paul

Adventure at anchor

2010-01-05T16:23:00.000-08:00

Pipe's Creek, Exuma

I sit and write this as it howls 25 to 30 knots outside. Paul & I have had a good breakfast (cheese & pepper omelet, ham & toast), plenty of hot tea, & we are now warm & cozy after this morning's frightening wake-up alarm.

Here's the story:
At sunrise, Paul turned on the single-side band radio for the morning Bahama's net weather report. As I came up to the salon from below to turn on my iphone to record the report, Paul was anxiously peering forward over our bow, with the short-wave radio mike in one hand.

The large trawler who was anchored upwind of us, was dragging anchor and bearing down on us, thankfully with his engines on. He was calling another boat on the radio who was not responding, as Paul repeatedly called to him. Finally, he responded to Paul and immediately accepted Paul's offer for assistance.

Paul jumped in the dinghy, as I handed him the "Look bucket" & he headed up against the wind, current & chop to better assess the situation around the dragging trawler. It seems he could not raise his dragging anchor (all chain) due to a windlass failure, so Paul helps him release his second anchor, it does not grab, and now both his anchors are dragging. (Most of us are currently anchored with 2 anchors because of the wind direction change overnight).

Next thing I know, I hear our chain vibrating and rattling, & conclude that he has now snagged our chain, which is right now got all the load holding Independence in place. By the way, on one side of this channel in which we are anchored, is a rocky shore, and on the other side a shallow, hard, bar.

I hail Paul with the dinghy over to alert him & confirm what he already suspected. He jumps back on Independence, starts up the engines, and tries to tell the other captain to release all of his main anchor into the water. At this point, his second anchor has grabbed (however tentatively) & his boat starts swinging on that anchor perilously close to our bow. If that anchor gives & he moves in any direction, he will uproot our chain & anchor, & we both go!

Now Bruce & Debi have arrived in their dinghy to assist—Paul has shed his wet clothes for a wetsuit (it's chilly, & the water is warmer than the air), & with fins & snorkel, jumps in Debi's dinghy while Bruce & I stay on Independence with fenders & ready to drive the boat if we come loose. Paul dives the entangled chains, in the very strong current, and manages to free them from each other, at the same time the guy's second anchor releases it's hold, & the boat swings within spitting distance of our bow, poised to ensnare our second anchor rode on the other side!

He guns it forward, and thank goodness, our chain is now clear and we are once again 2 separate units. Now Bruce has jumped in the dinghy that Deb is driving to go to that boat and assist with pulling up his chain & anchors. He is joined by Paul & they both haul up both anchors manually, & finally help him reset both back where he started. The poor couple are in virtual shock (especially his wife), as the boat is new to them, and with the equipment failure, they were at a loss with just the 2 of them. He was very grateful & promised Paul to "pay it forward" & help the next guy who is in trouble.

And so… "the code of the sea"—we all look out for each other.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Holidays at Staniel Cay

2009-12-28T13:54:00.000-08:00

Hope everyone has had a wonderful holiday, maybe with loved ones, maybe shoveling some snow…

Independence is at anchor just off the docks at Staniel Cay. Our "cruising family" has remained together, and continue to be on the same basic schedule, at least until after the new year. (Kaya made an earlier departure to make it to Georgetown for Junkanoo).

In the Bahamas, Boxing Day is the day after Christmas and a day the locals acknowledge—everything remains closed, it is a holiday. The tradition of Boxing Day, comes from the days of British Loyalist who, on the day after Christmas, boxed up all the left-overs and gave them to the slaves, along with a day off.

On Christmas Eve, Paul & I went into town along with our friend, Sam, and joined an open-house gathering with ham, turkey, all the trimmings—hosted by a local family who invite all the islanders and cruisers every year.

The Scooter's have 4 family members visiting (staying on the island), and the DD's have 1 visitor on the boat. In the "mi casa es su casa" tradition, we also share guests and join in many group activities and general hanging out.

On a day when the northeast wind was blowing with a big swell coming in on the windward side (eastern side of the Exuma chain), we all dinghied up to a place called Bubble Bath. There is a natural pool formation on the western side of a cut out in the rocks, where the foamy breakers crash through when the seas are just right. We try to hold our own & swim against the waves, immersed in the foamy bubbles. Cries of "here comes a big one!" and "Is that all you've got??? Bring it!!" echo around the inlet. Our version of a water park…

We later snorkeled a drift dive and spotted some huge, beautiful spotted eagle rays. Between all these activities, we talk about food and prepare for the next meal.

Christmas dinner we all went out (no one had to cook!) I did spend the day fighting for the only working washing machine and drier at the marina, and ended up stringing up laundry all over Independence. But now we have clean sheets, towels and clothes!

Nothing much more to report, but we are getting ready for the New Year festivities, which include an auction, a golf-driving contest (which I won for the Ladies division last year!—bought everyone drinks with the credit at the yacht club), a Bahamian C-class sloop regatta, and the cruiser's race. Oh yes, and the annual Pirate Party. Every year since Johnny Depp bought his island down here, we hope he will show up!

Well, with or without Johnny, we will all be extending you the warmest wishes for the end of 2009 and all the best for the year to come!

P& S

Independence

Staniel Cay, Exumas

R we having fun yet?

2009-12-09T23:30:00.000-08:00

Woohoo! Here we still are at Norman's Cay. Why? Because we like it! Not because we are weathered in, by one cold front after another (as was the constant scenario last year)

The anchorage is comfortable, and roomy. We are surrounded by many vessels, 4 of whom are good cruising pals. Six of the 8 to 10 folks we are hanging with, are into either kite-boarding or wind-surfing, and so when the knot-reader indicates 13 or more knots of wind, out come the toys, and the water sports begin. The remainder of us, most likely are hanging on the beach, playing scrabble, swimming, or taking chase in a dinghy & rescuing a stray kiter who can't make it back to starting point.

The beers and snacks come out around 3, as we all, tired and happy, re-group on our beach chairs & blankets—dogs happily snug in the sand, after a day of romping and barking at the passing kite-boarders.
Another reason it is so pleasant for this activity, is that the winds, weather easterly or southerly merely blow the boards onto the beach or up into the shallow pond at the north end of the anchorage, not out to sea!

Yesterday (no wind, so the guys went spear-fishing), we wound up the day with an early pot-luck on the beach (which we now refer to as "our beach", and have built a nice table from the ruins of some shacks in the woods). The meal was really more like this incredible cook-off, since everyone outdid themselves with delicious offerings. This was the menu: Carnitas (a Mexican pulled-pork taco with toppings), lasagna, beautiful wahoo/avocado sushi rolls, a creamy lobster casserole, conch salad, grouper fingers—fabulous! The lobster, conch and grouper were all freshly harvested, the wahoo just a few days prior.

Then we sat around the small fire we made, sipping wine and playing catch-phrase, till the glasses were empty and our bellies full, we climbed into our dinghies and flashlight aimed our way back to our floating homes for a night of dreams and renewal.

Today, I managed a bike ride (Wayne & Sharon off-loaded their bikes yesterday), this being one of the
few cays to have a road (I use the word quite loosely). The girls have also been starting each day on the beach with a yoga session, before paddling back to our boats on our kayaks for breakfast.

Paul has managed to hook us into a reasonable internet connection, using the Bahamas cell tower connections. He has become the most important boat in this flotilla, as all our buddies vie for access & come visiting with their computers in hand. The nearest cell tower is not too far off, so we are in luck right now. It will change as we head south.

So, if all goes well, I will actually be able to send this off once again, and hope it reaches you all, so that you can give us a "hi, right back at ya"!

Wishing everyone good times and good health,

Sue and Paul
Independence
Bahamas

Hot December

2009-12-05T22:11:00.001-08:00

Norman's Cay, Exumas

Our second anchorage, after leaving Nassau. We arrived at our first stop- Alan's Cay on Tuesday, happy to be reunited with Different Drummer and Scooter, both cruising pals since our first year.

Falling in to familiar routines, we basically had the anchorage to ourselves, took off together in our dinghies for a morning of diving the reefs, and coming back with lobster and conch. We shared a meal on Independence, and the following night a meal on DD.

I enjoyed some kayaking around the little cay, and dropped off my food garbage for the resident iguanas. (They particularly enjoyed the cabbage remains).

Deb had to fly home for business emergency, so DD headed south less than 10 miles to Compass. We decided to follow as well, but cruised on the sound side, as the wind was mild and put out some fishing lines on the way down—fishing the wall.

Just as we were getting ready to come in the cut to the anchorage—zzzzzzzing! Fish on!
Landed a giant Wahoo to make all our friends we were meeting in the anchorage happy. (No one as happy as Paul!) In addition to gifts for their freezers, dinner for 7 on Independence—fresh grilled Wahoo.

Now we are happily playing with Tina & Matt on Mattina (!) Bruce, the bachelor for a week, Sharon & Wayne & some other cruisers enjoying this anchorage. I say playing, because there is a perfect beach blanket bingo beach here—and when the wind is right, like this morning, some of the gang is kite-boarding or wind-surfing. I am happy tooling around on my kayak & taking long walks.

Swimming with my hat & sunglasses to remind me to keep my face dry, as I am still waiting for the stitches to dissolve and all to completely heal before I risk immersion.

There is an airstrip on this island (used to be for the drug runner who owned the joint) and a restaurant that opens in the afternoon and serves $11 hot dogs and $12 burgers and fish fingers. Well, it takes a lot to run a food joint in a god-forsaken place like this (generators breaking down continually, supplies being flown in, etc...)

So, island life.. thank you very much, I'll take it! Be baking some bread soon—try out some new recipes. So far no terrible fronts coming through, so the weather has been on it's best behavior!

Wish you all the best,
S & P
Independence

Thankful Crossing, First Fish, It Begins

2009-11-30T13:45:00.000-08:00

Dear Friends and Beloved Family,

I hope you all had a very pleasant Thanksgiving, and have had some time to reflect on the gifts we have, the mere fact of our existence and the love that we receive. Paul & I were blessed to spend a nice evening with my Folks in Boynton Beach, followed by a visit and dinner the next day with the Wald's, our most gracious of friends in Stuart, who happily share what is theirs!

We finally departed Fort Lauderdale Sunday morning, after topping off our fuel tanks & securing/stashing all the FOOD and STUFF we were continually purchasing while there.
We have been traveling with some nice company-- Wayne & Sharon on "My Sharonna", a beautiful Celine trawler. We have been fortunate to get a nice 2-day weather window, necessary for getting across the banks and to Nassau where we will clear customs, etc., and hopefully find internet to send this off.

Our stay in Florida was besieged by numerous setbacks, including the headliner specialist from hell- who took till Nov. 16 to finish a job that was supposed to be done in June! Ironically, due to this delay, I had enough time to re-visit a dermatologist to remove a carcinoma on my nose-- yes, you can probably call me "Scarface" for a while! Aside from spending money, and getting medical attention, we enjoyed a very brisk social life in Ft. Lauderdale, as we have many friends who either live or pass through at this time of the year. Good company and good times.

So, all is cleared up, & our lures our out on 4 fishing lines, as we troll our way across the Tongue of the Ocean, heading to Nassau on this beautiful Monday morning. (We spent the night on the banks, anchored just outside the Tongue, which is a deeper than soundings body of water, shaped like a tongue, & at the northwest end, it narrows down to a shoaled opening onto the banks, suddenly going to around 15 to 20 ft. depths. Remarkable!

I will leave off, for now & go back up on the bridge & take a watch, so Paul can focus on his fishing lures!! more in Nassau...

4:30pm
We have cleared customs, immigration, washed the very salty boat & Paul has taxied to the Batelco (Bahamas telephone) office to try and get a special data phone. (I don't have high hopes, the communications here are dismal and change every year)

So, I am excited to be at this Starbucks (!) across the street from the marina, with a coffee and wifi!!

On the way here, we caught a small Dorado (mahi mahi) and My Sharonna caught two. There will be fish for dinner tonight, as 8 of us pot luck aboard My Sharonna. And so it begins.....

Best wishes, and Love to all of you,
from your salty travelers aboard Independence,
Sue and Paul

2009-04-03T00:14:00.000-07:00

Rum Cay

So here we are back at our home away from home. Once again the trip from Cape Santa Maria (the northernmost tip of Long Island) to Sumner Pt (the marina) was windy and choppy with banging head seas. To make matters worse, Paul’s valiant fishing attempts were mostly thwarted by the constant battle with the ever-present sea weed which continually fouled the lures.

The good news, was that on our previous day’s stop at Thompson’s Bay, Long Island we were able to score a big bag of stone crab claws at $10/lb, which beats the going price in Miami of around $15. Last night, with Monty and Oscar, we feasted on as many as we could eat with a delicious dipping sauce made from the downloaded recipe from the famous Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant.

The other fun events in our brief half day stay at Long Island included a great dinner and chat with the locals at Max’s conch bar, and a swim at the world’s deepest blue hole. The blue hole is currently busy with world-class free divers from Italy, Switzerland, New Zealand and who knows where else, who are practicing and competing this week. There were women there who were diving to 200 ft—just for practice! They wear full wet suits and a type of uni-fin which holds both feet together in one mermaid-type fin. In preparation, they spend about 15 minutes floating on their back and deep breathing before plunging down the line which is suspended from a float. You cannot even see down to the halfway point, it is so dark. Paul & friends can usually free dive to about 20 ft maybe more on a good day, just for comparison.

Anyway, arrival at Rum Cay presents its own unique adventures. Those of you in Florida may have noticed on news and in the papers a story covering the arrival of a manatee at a remote Bahamian island (Rum Cay). The marina right now boasts the only manatee within 200 miles, with the questions raised: how the heck did she get here & where did she come from? The scientists have arrived this morning (for the second time), and have determined that she came from the Palm Beach area and must have gotten swept out by currents and arrived here on a day when the seas were 15 ft. She has been identified by markings (scars and a ripped tail fin) and is at least 35 yrs old. We feed her fresh water from the hose (manatees are mammals and require fresh water) and she sucks on it like a bottle.

They plan to confine her for a few days, fatten her up with cases of cabbage and lettuce they brought, and then transport her by boat back to Florida for observation before tagging and releasing her into the wild. Stay tuned for further manatee developments.

Sue and Paul
Independence

Guests arrive with the wind

2009-03-25T00:10:00.000-07:00

The saying “What a difference a day makes” has really proved itself true lately. I’m sure those of you up north are witnessing the occasional spring-like, sunny day that can change your whole attitude about the grey, cold winter. Last week we experienced about 5 magnificent days of mild winds, blue skies & calm seas. We were fortunate to be anchored in an unpopulated area, with the company of just 2 other boats (our friends). Each day we spent on and in the water, pulling the dinghy behind us on drift dives, swimming around beautiful coral gardens, and gathering pails full of conch. We feasted on our take from the sea every night, & watched the stars in the calm of the night.

The last day of calm weather allowed us to pick up our present guests, Peter & Dorothy, who had flown the red-eye from LA to Miami, arriving in Georgetown by afternoon.

Then the next front arrived, and we have had an average of 25 knot winds (higher gusts) buffeting Independence, causing white caps in the harbor, and resulting in bouncy and wet dinghy rides for even the shortest distance. A day or 2 of this is often tolerated, but this relentless wind is causing even the most hardy sailor to become irritable & hopeful for a break. P & D have been champions. Cheerfully adapting to the forced close-quarter existence on Independence, and taking advantage of the slimmest opportunities to get in the water, they have slept in a bouncy v-berth, woken up to static radio net announcements, and been dragged on to wet dinghy rides across the rough harbor, with never a word of complaint. Thank you guys, and we wish we could have controlled the weather to offer a more balanced experience.

So, from windy Georgetown, we wish you all a very enjoyable and pleasant spring, and remember- What a difference a day makes!

With a smile,
Sue and Paul
Independence

Back on the hook

2009-03-12T00:07:00.000-07:00

Another cool (for the Bahamas) day, and the wind seems to be picking up again after a respite of a few days that was like an oasis in a blustery, cold winter. Independence is anchored just outside Compass Cay in a small harbor that we have had all to ourselves for the last 3 days.

It's been a nice break from the busy drama of Rum Cay, so we have had to change mode from living on the dock, to being back on the hook. (Running the generator twice a day, separating the food garbage for fish food, keeping lights at a minimum, etc.)

Jubilee is at the marina with Alan and Helen on board, so we have been spending time at Compass, hiking the trails and swimming the beaches. Tonight will be our farewell "happy hour" since the Weinsteins fly out tomorrow, and Jubilee will move on.
After that, we will make our way south again, till we get to Georgetown (the cruiser's hub) to pick up Paul's cousin Peter & wife Dorothy who will join us onboard for a week. We have also just found out another friend (Benny Jr) will join us after that. Things will be getting pretty busy on Indy, and it will be good to get in Georgetown to re-provision in the only decent market south of Nassau.

Of course, it's not like we have been hungry! Paul's lobsters caught in the last 2 days, and the conch which is cleaned and waiting in the fridge, have more than supplemented the Dorado (mahi-mahi) caught on the way up from Rum Cay. We give blessings for the abundance on our plates from the sea.

So, hoping you all have many blessings as well, love to all-- spring is on the way!

Sue & Paul
Independence

No-see-ums, green flashes, shark shows, naturalist excursions, beach-combing

2009-02-26T15:52:00.000-08:00

Rum Cay, Bahamas

Our entry into Sumner Point Marina felt in many ways like coming home. Independence has spent a month or more at a time in this protected hole. It is the only time we tie up at a marina—there are several reasons for this. Primarily, because the anchorage is basically untenable for any stretch of time, especially in a trawler. There is a swell that, even on the calmest days will rock your boat till you are ready to swim to shore and sleep on the beach.

This, of course, is not an option because if the mosquitoes are not covering every inch of exposed skin, then the “no-see-ums” are leaving their incredible stinging bite on those same spots. These microscopic, flying pests especially appear before sunset (also early morning) and launch a full-scale attack on the crew of the fishing boats, cleaning the day’s catch at the docks.

The protocol that has evolved for us, is put on long sleeves & long pants, close up the boat & turn on the air-conditioning (another reason fro being at the dock), & venture outside with a beer or two for the fish-cleaners (which might result in a zip-lock bag filled with fresh fillet for dinner).

There are two shows going on about this time. One is the shark-feeding fest. These sharks have been coming in for years, trained by the prospect and smell of free food, as the fish remains get tossed off the dock. Some are a good 10ft long, and there are Lemon sharks and Bull sharks mixed in with the nurse sharks. Often, someone will tie a line through the fish carcass and bait the sharks, pulling them clear out of the water as they lunge and grab the bait. Falling off the dock is just not an option! (nor is swimming in the marina at any time of day).

The second show is nature’s heavenly display as the huge, fiery sun, sometimes the color of a blood orange, sinks slowly, at first, then quickly melts into the blue waters of the horizon. All eyes are trained on those last few seconds of descent, eager to catch a glimpse of the Green Flash, which is a sight heralded by those who see it, and mocked by those who claim there is no such thing. I have often seen a burst of green, almost like a green button where the sun’s edge just was, but I have heard that there are truly spectacular flashes across the entire horizon. I still watch for that one!
Yesterday, on my daily 8am bike ride with a small group of islanders, we were surprised by one of the bulls who inhabit the island. The surprise was mutual, I’m sure, as we hooted and hollered and followed behind him as he galloped (really!) down the road and finally off through the brush again. He was big and white with a brown head, and a member of a herd of maybe over 100 wild cows (usually scrawny) whose evidence we see along the only paved road and on many of the beaches that ring the island.It’s about a 6.5 mile ride to the airport and back, but when the wind is blowing 20 knots, like this morning, it feels like twice that. The up side is that encountering a truck and a golf cart would be a heavy traffic day.

After packing a picnic lunch, we joined Oscar & Sue on their amazing little ranger vehicle that allows us access into the depths of the island. Bull-dozed “roads” criss-cross much of the island these days—many are already overgrown, all look like a rubble of rocks and boulders sided by overhanging branches & thorny stuff, as well as healthy poisonwood trees cropping up every so often. The high chassis & individual wheel suspension allow us to plow right over small trees & shrubs and ascend perilous rises, as well as get through soft sand. Two of us stand behind the seat in the bed, overlooking the treetops for some great views.

In addition to the obvious sea-grape, I have learned to identify the lignum vitae tree, the gum alame (Sp? Also called gumbo limbo), wild tamarind, 7-year apple, mahogany, and of course- the poison wood. Sue is a great guide and naturalist. At the northeast corner of the island, we get a good look at Lake George- a huge area of water, presumably fed by a blue hole, which exists near the center. That part of the island has hidden cenotes (underwater caves) and driving over the limestone ridges next to open holes filled with water can be a bit disconcerting.

We finally arrive at the N.E. beach. The wind is howling, & we climb down the bluff to the shore, where it’s a bit less exposed. This is a long, long stretch of beach-comber’s paradise. Up on the wrack line, an accumulation of plastic, glass bottles, and very random bits of machinery, lumber and always lots of shoes, are scattered among the piles of seaweed. Here is where we search for sea beans, old bottles, and glass sea bouys. Sometimes a useful bucket, strainer, or weird item is a keeper. Closer down by the surf where the soft sand meets flat rocky ledges, sparkling sea glass waits to be picked through and pocketed. Some of the limestone is worn away by the water creating little pocket pools that fill up with treasures, shells and coral bits thrown up by the receding tide. Michelle and Brigid, you both know how many hours we can happily pick through these offerings!

So, finally, full from our picnic feast, satisfied with our gleaning from the shore, and even tucking an ocean trigger that Oscar hooked with some bait he pulled from snails into the cooler, we head on back to town and home.

It’s been a stellar day.

Sue and Paul
Independence,
Rum Cay

They do laundry, too.

2009-01-10T15:54:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year from Independence!

The end of the "festivities" left us with a neglected boat (clean-wise), and a mountain of laundry. No doubt everyone is familiar with the social whirl, company cycle that replaces the normal daily schedule of your lives, and then the catch-up when it is all over. [Editor's note: Yes, we are familiar with this cycle,...against a backdrop of bitter cold weather, far from the azure waters of the Caribbean.]

After fond farewells to visitors and friends, our house-keeping began with a trip to Sampson Cay Marina for fuel (and a quick birthday present purchase of the "market"). From there, we jumped in the dinghy to return some borrowed items, and deliver a late X-mas gift to a friend anchored at Big Sampson. Then we headed south to Black Point, which, for those in the know, is the location of the best (cleanest, modern) laundromat. Underway, I baked a crust & cheesecake for Deb's Bay.

Once we were safely anchored in the anchorage, there was a quick organization of laundry: sheets, towels, darks & lights. Then package it in dry bags & big black plastic bags and load it onto the dinghy. The "laundermat" has a dock conveniently located out the back & down the hill. So we tie up there and lug our stinking treasures up, so they can be rejuvenated with $27 worth of washer/dryer tokens. Once the washers are churning, we find ourselves inching up to the corner TV screen which is broadcasting warfare in the Gaza on CNN -- this, being the first bit of network news we've heard in quite a while. There is also a couple of small shelves in the corner with the usual assortment of moldy, pocket-worn paperbacks and few 3-year old magazines and some hardcovers, for swap-out.

A walk through the main street of Black Point reveals a clean town (big, plastic garbage barrels line the road every 30 meters), and warm and friendly locals, and several prominent churches. (We've found that in many communities, rival congregations make up most of the population.)

Later, that evening, after transporting the laundry in reverse, 6 of us got together for a nice birthday dinner for Deb, and probably all fell fast asleep by 9pm- a full hour before "cruiser's midnight". Time to say goodbye, now and hope that my current internet connection holds out to send this.

Best wishes and all our love,
Sue and Paul, aboard Independence.

Christmas winds, Christmas hospitality, flotilla of carolers

2008-12-29T09:54:00.000-08:00

We hope everyone had a delicious, warm, and happy Christmas with friends and loved ones. Independence was blessed with the arrival of Lisa and Lance. Our cruising buddies joined us in making them most welcome and showing them a full few days of activities. We are sad to say goodbye to them today, but they will continue their brief vacation on Harbor Island, a short flight north of here, before returning to the snow-covered streets of Boston.

Although we did not have snow, we did have a week of strong “Christmas winds” and several days of rain and nasty squalls. These boat-bound days can either drive you a little stir-crazy, or force you into some creative or repair work. Of course, it is always an opportunity to do some needed cleaning and organizing in our small living space.

Independence was decorated with Christmas baubles on the inside, and rope LED lights on our mast and boom. The anchorage looks quite festive with many boats strung up with lights. On Christmas morning a flotilla of dinghies with passengers dressed festively in red, motored from boat to boat singing Christmas carols.

Our Christmas day was spent on a beautiful drift dive (8 of us) where we snagged some lobsters, swam with about 8 huge, and graceful spotted eagle rays, and ended up in a field of conch that we collected for later cleaning (and eating). Later, we all prepared the feast for our progressive dinner. Conch and lobster salads for appetizer, then mahi-mahi parmesan-i (our invention), followed by chocolate cake and coconut cream pie! Somehow we manage to concoct these feasts in our limited galleys.

The next few days were a whirlwind of activity, often starting with vigorous yoga on the beach followed by a refreshing swim (to get the sand of our sweaty bodies).

Paul and I are so grateful to our friends for going all out and showing our guests all the best parts of the Bahamas that we love. (If you don’t love being on and in the water, and camping in tight spaces, it ain’t for you!)

The next few days, after we put L & L on the plane, will continue to be filled with activities. Staniel Cay has a New Year regatta which encompasses things such as a Pirate Party (tonight), a fund-raising auction, a long-shot contest- where you drive golf balls off the dock into the water and chaser boats judge who has the longest drive, more happy hours, and the mixed-doubles race- which is selected cruisers (random from a sign-up) join the Bahamians on their traditional C-class sloops for a race around the harbor. Finally there is the cruising regatta, in which anyone with a sailboat can join in another race around the harbor. This is the most active time on this island, and there are mega-yachts who come every year at this time, and sponsor and support most of these activities which all benefit the local community.

After all this, the presently nice weather is supposed to pick up again with some stronger winds, so we will have to see where and when we go next. Anchorages are determined by direction and velocity of wind, and weather there is a swell or surge present which makes it very rocky and unpleasant on the boat.

I hope to post this email asap, though I have not had any success at raising internet, so I may be taking my computer to shore to see what service I can buy there. So, till then, wishing everyone the best for the new year. Stay healthy, happy and safe, and let us know what you are all up to these days.

With Love from Independence,
Sue & Paul

rescues and other good deeds...small world phenomena continues

2008-12-09T21:38:00.000-08:00

Norman’s Cay

There’s been a little rustle in the recently established pattern of activity (wake up, radio & weather, breakfast, cleanup, get in the water w/all your gear on, return with catch of the day, clean catch, rinse gear & self, then on to dinner arrangements).

Yesterday, just after the 6 of us climbed into Scooter’s dinghy, “Big Red”, and were headed out the very narrow, shoaled-in cut, a new arrival made it’s way in and promptly went aground. This, after the Canadian=hailing sailboat assured us that yes, they had been in there before, thus they were familiar with the channel. So, we turned back to see if we could assist, and after a brief discussion, we convinced them that if they threw an anchor where they were stuck and waited for incoming tide, bad things would happen, most significantly the current would push them right up on the rocks.

So we spun them around with a dinghy on their stern & one on the bow, both pushing clockwise, so they could get back out the cut to anchor outside and wait for the tide to get in. THEN, we carried on with our dive plan.
Later, at high tide, it was our own turn to leave the Ship’s Channel harbor that we have been calling home the last 4-5 days. Bruce decided to dive the cut and inspect at close range for exit strategy, and found it so shoal, that he decided to mark with buoys a different route out of the harbor. Scooter led the way, then, with inches to spare, Different Drummer made it out, with Independence right behind.

Ah, good bye to a lovely little anchorage (so what, we each had to have 3 anchors out to keep ourselves in the deep water through both tides), where we had internet (!), friends caretaking the island, excellent snorkeling and diving all around, protection from wind, a place to burn trash, and relative peace from the outside world.
Next we found ourselves anchored at Highborne Cay, just outside an expensive, but nice marina with a well-stocked general store, fuel, a few mega-yachts, and some very nice people running the place.

Despite all those perks, the anchorage was rolly from swell, making it frustratingly uncomfortable for the 2 trawlers. The real tragedy was for our neighbors at this anchorage, in a less than 25’ sailboat, who lost their dinghy overnight. A young couple out of Maryland, just engaged, heading south to the Virgins to try and pick up some work once they get there. In other words, broke, and now without a dinghy & water.

We filled their jerry jug with water and gathered together a bag of provisions from us 3 boats, and Pete (the hero) donated his spare inflatable rowing dinghy to be returned to him in Georgetown via Paul & Melanie. (The young woman came from Chestertown where we know people in common-- previous cruising buddies of ours)

Needless to say, they were extremely grateful, and the intrepid trio, Indy, DD and Scooter, headed out of that #$@%% rolling anchorage to a better locale.

We have reached Norman’s Cay, the island once controlled by the notorious drug lord, Carlos (Joe) Lehder, and more recently a small resort & restaurant for the small planes that land at their airfield & the occasional cruisers. The island is now private and partly owned by a couple from Australia that we met in Southold last summer.

The small world phenomena continues.

iguana sumo wrestlers always startle the tourists...after dinner bowling on Independence

2008-12-04T19:45:00.000-08:00

Ship’s Channel, Bahamas

It’s been a week. After a brief stop in Nassau, Independence and our pals on Different Drummer (a beautiful, blue-hulled Bristol), continued across the Banks to Alan’s Cay.

This little cluster of islands/rocks, is known for it’s abundant population of iguanas. They are protected by Bahamian law and so bountiful—they own the island. These pre-historic looking creatures do not have keen eyesight, but they can detect a morsel of food scraps in a flash. Once, sometimes twice a day, long triple engine cigarette-type boats, laden with tourists from Nassau speed over to Alan’s Cay, pull up to the short, sandy beach, disembarking the passengers for a feed-fest with the iguanas. They come out from the underbrush, the rocks, out of the branches of slow-lying shrubs, and waddle their way to the beach with forelegs bent out at right angles, walking like sumo wrestlers. Their long tails drag loopy paths in the soft sand, and as they approach some tidbits of lettuce or banana peel, there is a rush as one or two snap and fight for the piece of treasure. The quick aggression always startles the tourists, and they jump back with a squeal.

While the wind blew 3 fronts through our little anchorage, we saw several cruising boats come and go for a night or two, as this is mostly a stopping point for cruisers heading towards Georgetown.

Yesterday, both DD and Indy left that anchorage to come here, a mile or so north to join our friends on Scooter. This is a fun place, as we know the caretakers and friends of the owner of the little island. He runs a business from Nassau on those afore-mentioned tourist boats. After they stop to feed the iguanas for 15 minutes or so, they run up here to Ship’s Channel Cay, where there are some out-buildings, a bar, a dock, pretty little beach. They can snorkel, sunbathe, hike a trail, and have lunch. Then they are all ferried back on the boat (30 – 40 people) and run back to Nassau. A day in the islands!
Once the touristas are gone, we go ashore to hang and converse with the crew left behind.

------

Today, we convened on Scooter in the morning to share Deb’s homemade muffins & plan out the day. At slack tide, we clambered into two of the 3 dinghies with wet-suits on, fins, masks, snorkels, spears and buckets all loaded in, and headed out of the anchorage to explore and hunt the beautiful reefs and coral heads around the islands. It was a good day, we returned with 3 Margates, a Hogfish and about 6 lobster. We also had a beautiful drift dive, and saw several turtles and beautiful fish and soft coral. (I know, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it).

We split the food preparation for tonight’s feast, which we will shortly bring to shore and share with the 6 people who are left on the island after working the tourist trade for the day. Last night, dinner was on Independence with the 6 of us, & we grilled the wahoo we had caught the other day. After dinner we bowled on the Wii that Scooter brought over!

Who knew there was so much to keep one occupied living on a small little space, floating in the middle of no civilization…

(Oh yes, and most importantly, there is wi-fi!!!)

Love to everyone,
S & P

Safe in Nassau

2008-11-25T20:23:00.000-08:00

Hi All,

We made the big crossing, leaving Ft Lauderdale early yesterday morning arriving here in Nassau at 3am this morning.

Fortunately the weather window panned out even better than expected, with a beautiful day across the Gulf Stream (calm seas). As we approached Bimini and North Rock, which is the passage into the Banks, we converged with a fleet of 4-5 boats (mostly sail) who had departed Miami. The next 5 or so hours we were treated to various conversations between these Georgetown-bound cruisers, who we knew from previous years. Gradually, as we put more distance between us, we lost radio contact.

Hitting the crystal clear, turquoise waters of the Bahamas was a welcome return to familiar waters. Oh, we caught only 1 fish on the crossing-- a small jack, which we threw back.

Approaching Nassau across the Tongue of the Ocean (so named, because it is extremely deep water shaped like a tongue between Andros and New Providence Island), we were guided by the bright lights of Nassau. In fact, entering the harbor, we were greeted by 2 Carnival Ships at the docks, lit up like Christmas Trees.

We dropped the anchor in the harbor at 3 am just behind Different Drummer, and grabbed a couple of hours sleep.

We are now tied up at a marina, have cleared customs, got our cruising permit, took down our Q-flag & hoisted the Bahamas courtesy flag, and now WE ARE HERE!!!!

I believe we will set sail early in the morning towards Norman's cay & share a bountiful Thanksgiving feast with Diff. Drummer when we arrive. (I hope the turkey fits in the oven)

Love and Blessings to all of you,

Sue and Paul

aboard Independence in the Bahamas

the Lauderdale economy...a small turkey on Monday, & cast off for an island thanksgiving

2008-11-22T20:16:00.000-08:00

Stationed at Las Olas Marina in Ft. Lauderdale, FL.

This marina is 2 blocks from the beach, which in this area is a long, publicly accessible beach with Rt A1A running right alongside. There is a bike lane and a wide, winding sidewalk along the beach heavily used by joggers, strollers, tourists, and occasional skaters all zigzagging through the scattered palm trees. A low, wide, undulating wall separates these pedestrians from the fine white, sandy shore. At most beach entrances, showers flank the steps, and lifeguards keep a vigilant watch on all water-access. Down at the south end of the stretch, kayaks, hobie-cats, and kite-boards can be rented, and there is often a brisk business renting lounge chairs and umbrellas.

Across the street, there are sidewalk restaurants offering oversize glasses of Margeritas and live music. Shops filled with tourist mementos, sell bikinis and T-shirts with off-color messages. Tucked in side streets there are ample choices of tattoo parlors, and bars.

At the north end of the strip, recent high-rises have sprouted, throwing afternoon shade on the beaches across the street, and desperately trying to rent or sell to high-end market in this economy.

In the week that we have been here, we have done our very best to stimulate and support the Lauderdale economy. There have been numerous trips to marine supply stores, Home Depot, supermarkets, K-mart, hardware stores, and restaurants. Each time we return to the boat we unload the car, unpack purchases, remove and recycle wrappings and then find yet another corner on Independence to tuck things away.

Every evening we have had the pleasure of having dinner with friends who live here, or are passing through.
This orgy of shopping and dining will end abruptly as soon as we get our weather window to cross over to the Bahamas. For the next 5 or so months, we will be lucky to access a market with fresh milk and eggs, and will grab what we can when we see it. I am confident that we could live for close to a year on the contents of Independence right now!

The weather window we have our eye on right now is possibly opening up for Tuesday. If this stays as is forecast, we will buy a small turkey on Monday, & cast off for an island thanksgiving. Of course, these weather situations change by the hour, so we could possibly be here w/friends for turkey day, & still be watching the horizon for our next calm Gulf Stream opportunity.

Finally, let’s remember to say Thank you. As Cicero said: “Gratitude is not only the greatest of virtues, but the parent of all the others.”

Happy Thanksgiving!

The Skinniest Canals

2008-11-13T16:29:00.000-08:00

Each new place becomes familiar as we take our time to settle in. Different Drummer came on Tuesday and tied up behind us. Deb and I went to a 7am yoga class recommended by Jessica, the next morning. We had a warm welcome, and a free class.We then had a fun, winding trip down the skinniest canals with switchbacks bordered by banyans and waterfront homes. The trip was taken in Flying Colors, a 70 ft Huckins, which defies sensible expectation-- this is a route perfectly suited to a kayak!

We ended up bringing Flying Colors to Wald’s dock, so now 3 of us tied up, where there is usually no boat the rest of the year.

"More friends there, then final provisioning."

2008-11-09T16:51:00.001-08:00

Stuart, Florida

Independence is at a stopping point, here in Central Florida. You really don’t realize how big a state it is, till you start making your way down the ICW [editor: Inland Coastal Waterway goes down most of the East Coast]. This is a planned stop, as we have free dockage at our generous friend’s dock. It is also a good boating town and premier fishing area, thus many marine supply stores. The Wagner’s are here, also provisioning and planning to jump off and do a fast run to Georgetown as soon as Paloma clears out & seas die down. As we re-charge ourselves, we plan to visit many friends in this area before heading down to Ft. Lauderdale for a while.

More friends there, and final provisioning.

This past week, listening to election results at an anchorage in northeast FL, then making our slow way south while the world, the country, and Florida (!) get accustomed to the idea of a non-white President, and a very different administration, has been quite momentous. Emails and phone calls and text msgs were flying between Independence & friends & family. Wow, what a difference 4 years makes. (and 8 years ago, when Lisa called us in Palm Beach County & wondered what the hell was going on down here, & why didn’t we straighten them out?)

We attended the Stuart air show yesterday, and were treated to an impressive display from sky-writing to wing-walking to formation flying to very fast and very loud air force jets, all amongst a family-style carnival atmosphere with heavy recruiting & promotion going on at many booths. Our tax dollars at work. They are just completing the final run for today right above Independence, with the “Missing Man” formation. I will post some photos to picasaweb soon.

2008-10-29T19:21:00.000-07:00

A couple of days in Charleston is not a bad thing. We have done some preliminary 6 mo. provisioning at the Harris Teeter. Corny name for a great supermarket. Packing it into the boat took longer than shopping!

If you would like to see photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/suekreiling
The “Independence heads South” album also has map pointers. That album is where this voyage started.

Enjoy!
Love, Sue & Paul

A Walk in Charleston

2008-10-29T18:41:00.000-07:00

typing from Ashley Marina, mussels at 37 Rue de Jean, from there to here we were lucky

2008-10-28T19:25:00.000-07:00

I am typing from Ashley Marina in Charleston. Well, it is actually on the outskirts, and you can take along walk along Broad St, and around the water’s edge of this port city, but it’s doubtful we will today, as this cold front has brought chilling winds, and low temps. I know, you guys in the Northeast are getting the chilling rain, yuk.

While the laundry tumbles in the drier, we are catching up on some “housework”...

Shelley,
last night we had mussels at 37 Rue de Jean, a French bistro that should be on your “places to eat mussels before I die” list. Though they have 5 different preparations, go first for the pistou, making sure to tell the waiter to keep the bread coming, as you will need itto sop up the delectable garlic/herb juice. There is also an incredible curry base, a provencal, and other great options.

Two nights ago, we anchored in the Wacamaw River (S. Carolina) in the most beautiful side creek,surrounded by trees hanging with Spanish moss, and critters hiding amongst the soggy tumbled down logs and foliage of the banks. Peaceful and tucked in, then greeting the early morning fog, then the bright sunshine reflecting off the flat water.

So yesterday from there to here we were lucky to have tidal push almost the entire day, and not a lot of boat traffic.

Independence Heads South - 10/6-10/27

2008-10-27T18:15:00.000-07:00